Checking in: Christchurch Harbour Hotel

Seaside frolics and Regency glamour.

Oh, we do like to be beside the sea... even when it rains. Every time we've ventured to the seashore, it always seems to happen. Cornwall, Isle of Wight, Hastings and Brighton: rain, rain, rain and rain. So when the heavens opened just as we stepped off the train in Dorset, we shrugged our shoulders with all the insouciance of storm-weathered sailors. Anyway, who needs to actually be beside the sea when you have a luxury hotel to view it from?

Christchurch is a friendly little town just 15 minutes from Bournemouth with picturesque views of the sea and River Stour, making it a haven for hotels catering to landlocked weekend visitors. The latest addition, Christchurch Harbour Hotel in Mudeford was originally a grand seaside residence before becoming a hotel, which until recently was The Avonmouth. Now under new ownership, the hotel has been restored to its former glory with lots of new mod cons including a spa and a Gary Rhodes restaurant, Rhodes South.

A cream-coloured Regency house, now made even grander with the addition of 47 new rooms, the hotel resembles a seaside version of the imposing homes in London's Belgravia and Regent's Park. Making our way in from the cold sea air and the rain, we're soon happily ensconced in the reception which leads directly to the bar and the Harbour Restaurant with its perfectly framed view of the water. The room is bright (even in this weather) and airy, while the décor is all muted gold flocked wallpaper, glittering chandeliers and pale blues - all very soothing, welcoming and stylish, in an understated way. As we debate whether or not to indulge in an afternoon drink, we can't help wish for a more warm weather day. The terrace overlooking the harbour was made for lazy afternoon drinks in the sunshine. However, our daydreaming is interrupted only to be replaced by a more appealing reality: our spa appointment beckons.

Arriving to our room, we see the therapist has thoughtfully left slippers, robe and goodie bag filled with Guinot products. Our room is one of the stylish newer additions, snug and decorated with a similar colour scheme to the restaurant in lots of soothing beiges and pastel blues. The bed is one of the comfiest we've ever slept in, but unfortunately our room is inland-facing, which defeats the point of a seaside visit. Unless your stay is all business, make sure you request a Silver, Gold or Deluxe Gold Room which come with that all-important harbour view.

  The Harbour SpaSpa
The Harbour Spa is another new addition to the hotel featuring ESPA and Guinot treatments. We plumped for the ESPA Total Holistic Body Care massage (£70), which is the veritable ‘Full Monty' - 100 minutes of full body brushing and scrub, followed by a deep body, face and scalp massage using self-selected essential oils. It's as good as it sounds and totally recommended. 

Other than the mysterious appearance of people bustling through the relaxation area fully dressed while I chilled in my bathrobe, the spa as a whole is incredibly peaceful. Dark, moody colours, hydrotherapy pool plus all the bells and whistles you'd expect - it really is a very good hotel spa, and just the thing to get me all shiny, pretty and relaxed before my dinner date.

Eating and drinking
The waterside location of Rhodes South was so impressive it rendered us silent for several minutes - and that was before our very well-made cocktails arrived. Seafood is an obvious choice and we loved the seared sea scallops with roast pork belly, parsnip purée and caramelised onion cream. The roast sea bass with lobster champ potatoes and lobster sauce was also was plate-scrapingly good. Service was friendly and knowledgeable, prices reasonable and the food was prettily presented without being pretentious.

Who goes there?
The hotel seems to be a popular choice for weddings and parties, so expect a mixed crowd. We also spotted other couples enjoying a cheeky weekend away.

  Rhodes SouthWhat to wear
For dinner in Rhodes South, the look is understated elegance. Make an effort but don't debut your new fanciest new frock. Most come here to pursue the great outdoors (in addition to the sea, the New Forest and horseback riding are all nearby), so your Breton-striped top and denims will do during the day.

Getting there
We travelled by train in just under three hours from London Waterloo to Christchurch for £25 return using www.thetrainline.com, and the hotel was just a short taxi ride away.

Christchurch Harbour Hotel, Restaurant and Spa, 95 Mudeford Christchurch, Dorset. Weekend room rates start from £130 including breakfast. Special offers and package breaks are also available. Visit www.christchurch-harbour-hotel.co.uk for more information or call 01202 483434.

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