Egypt, Dahab and the Red Sea

Egypt must be the greatest outdoor museum in the world, encompassing 30 dynasties, 50 rulers and 2,700 years of history.

A visit to Egypt will without doubt be the experience of a lifetime. Though it has plentiful amounts of has sun, sand and in some places sea, the country's great draw is the magnificent and unique architecture - relics of a civilisation that has fascinated both historians and travellers for thousands of years.

Your entry point into Egypt will probably be chaotic Cairo, where most people head straight for the only remaining Wonder of the World: the pyramids and Sphinx at Giza. However, there are some more interesting pyramids at the site of Saqarra, where you will find the world's earliest step pyramid of Zoser. Whatever you do, don't miss the opportunity to peer into the stone eyes of Zoser himself through two eye-level holes in the ruins at the rear. These sites are a fair distance apart so it's best to hire a taxi for the day. And consider putting aside a whole day for the Cairo Museum – a wilderness of artefacts and curiosities, the highlights of which are the Tutankhamun Galleries and the Royal Mummy Room.

The quickest and most comfortable route out of Cairo is the overnight sleeper train to either Aswan or Luxor. Catch this at Ramses station and it should cost you $50. Nile-side Aswan is where you begin to feel like a real Indiana Jones. If you don't go anywhere else, ensure you investigate Abu Simbel, the most incredible temples in Egypt and well worth the 3am start through the desert! But there are even more surprises to be had, not least when you approach the impressive Philae Temple. What makes it even more remarkable is that the entire site was once underwater and has been moved and completely rebuilt at the current location. Further along, on the West Bank at Aswan, are the Tombs of the Nobles - the VIPs' answer to the Valley of the Kings. Getting across the river is easiest by local ferry or felucca – a type of sailing boat - the latter being the more romantic option, especially at sunset.

For a touch of luxury, and probably the best way to get travel down the river to Luxor, arrange a cruise through a local travel agent, ensuring that the boat stops at Kom Ombo and Edfu on the way (though these can also be reached by felucca or train). Luxor is an impressive selection box of tourist attractions. First, head to the Tomb of Nefertari at Valley of the Queens because only a limited number of people can go in. If you can't get to see this, the tomb of Amunherkhepshep, including the mummified foetus of her aborted child, is a good second best. Other must-sees include the Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir al-Bahri), the Hypostyle Hall at Karnak (a labyrinth of papyrus columns) and the tomb of Tuthmosis III in the Valley of Kings, where a ticket will allow you entry into three tombs, so make your choice carefully. If you are very lucky the exciting tomb named 'KV5' may have opened. This is believed to be the burial place of more than 50 of Ramses II's sons. Also worth visiting for sheer size of excavation is the Workman's Village, a terraced necropolis of the crasftsmen who lived there.

On the East Bank, Luxor Museum houses some exquisite pieces and is open late, making it ideal for early evening viewing, after which you can sip a drink at the historic Winter Palace Hotel as the sun goes down over the Nile. Travelling around here is simple: taxis are cheap on both sides of the river and always available for day hire or just a single journey. Alternatively there are hantours (horse-drawn carriages), which are fun for short journeys, or if you simply want to get to the West Bank, take the local ferry, which costs next to nothing.

When you are finally saturated with hieroglyphics and temples, it's time to get horizontal in Dahab on the Red Sea. Low-level seating and chill-out-style restaurants line the coast, which is a playground for divers and snorkellers. For more action check out Lagoon Beach, with its stunning mountainous backdrop and try your hand at windsurfing. Dahab is so compact the only means of transport required are camels, horses and taxis, with the nearest airport being Sharm el-Sheik. If you don't have your sea legs with you flying is probably a worthwhile option from Luxor because the coach and ferry will take roughly 14 hours.

The temperature in Egypt reaches unbearable levels during the summer months (in excess of 40°) so spring or autumn is the best time to visit. However, if you are a sun goddess and choose to visit during the hottest months, you are unlikely to come across queues at ticket offices and more often than not you will be the only visitors at most sites – a real opportunity to see everything in detail and let your imagination run away with you in this mystical place.