Weekend in Normandy

Normandy is a perfect slice of northern France and the most brilliant thing about it is its proximity to the UK – just 30 minutes through the tunnel and a couple of hours along the well kempt French motorways and you're there! I took a quick turn around some of the most beautiful spots in Normandy.

Rouen
Rouen… idyllic cobbled streets, quaint restaurants tucked away in small corners of beautiful beamed buildings, and home to the acclaimed Armada festival.

Once every four years this historic Norman city, on the banks of the Seine, comes alive for L'Armada Rouen – a celebration of tall ships from all over the world. For one week in July, the population swells from 380,000 to more than 10 million as international visitors flock to the Armada for a taste of French music, dance, food, sunshine, and, of course, sailing.

On a hot weekend day, it's advisable to avoid the hoards scrambling around the decks of boats hailing from everywhere from Norway to Indonesia and take a quiet stroll around the other points of interest in Rouen. The square where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431 now houses several bustling cafés and restaurants and is a perfect people-watching spot, while architecture fans should check out the gob-smackingly ornate gothic cathedral of Notre Dame, whose intricate design is awesome.

If it's not too hot, slap on some suncream and a floppy hat and take to the banks of the beautiful Seine to explore the interior of the tall ships. The crews are at hand to chat to wannabe sailors (I even saw one crew signing autographs for curious French school children!) and there are small boats to ferry you up and down the river, from ship to ship.

Pont Saint Pierre
Normandy is famous for its fresh seafood, delicious wine and creamy cheeses. Simply the best way to sample all of the amazing food on offer is to try a 'degustation' menu. Pont Saint Pierre, a few miles south-east of Rouen, is famous for little more than one amazing restaurant – La Bonne Marmite. On the day I visited, chef Maurice Amiot prepared a menu consisting of roasted fennel mousse, duck foie gras and scallops; crepinettes of pink trout served with tarragon; duckling with morello cherries; Normandy cheeses and warm apple tart – all typically Norman and all matched perfectly with hand-picked wines from his extensive cellar.

OK, La Bonne Marmite is not cheap, but Monsieur Amiot consistently picks up awards for his cuisine and is renowned throughout the region for his rustic, candle-lit restaurant. Menus start at 31 euros, and there are hotel rooms upstairs for those that can't face the waddle back to Rouen.

Giverny
Further south again, following the winding Seine, lies Giverny – a must-do on my Normandy tour.

Even for somebody usually bored rigid by endless galleries and museums, Giverny is impressive. The Museum of American Art is not only stunning architecturally but it also houses a collection of interesting works grouped together in such a way as to make them accessible to even the most reluctant visitor.

Spend a couple of hours here, the tour guides are excellent and happy to offer their own opinions on the museum's work. The People Work, an exhibition chronicling the value of work in American society from early farming days to the cowboy era to industrial capitalism runs until August 17 and is a really good place to wander around and wonder.

The Fondation Claude Monet is just a short stroll from the art museum and is where you can see the home and gardens of Impressionist artist Claude Monet, including the fabulous water lily pond immortalised in his paintings. It's definitely €5.50 well spent.

Lyons-la-Foret
Take a slight detour to the north-east and you happen upon Lyons-la-Foret, possibly the most beautiful beech forest in France. Lush and green, you could spend days in this provincial French town doing nothing but eating at the numerous small cafés and restaurants, rambling along the ancient village pathways, and relaxing at the Hostellerie du Domaine Saint-Paul – a chalet-style hotel complex and restaurant.

This restored mansion house and estate is a former hunting lodge and captures the charm of 1800s France. The rooms are all tapestry and antique furniture - not an Ikea wardrobe in sight – and the staff are warm and welcoming (and happy to speak English if your French isn't up to scratch).

During the day, take a trip to the village market and stock up on the local speciality, calvados, an extremely alcoholic (and delicious) apple brandy. Cider is also plentiful in this region and is drunk with lunch and dinner, much like wine. Down the road is the Chateau de Vascoe – a 40-year chateau restoration project which is nearing completion. This is the spot where historian Michelet wrote his History Of France. The lower floors of the chateau are now home to a fabulous modern art exhibition space, and then gardens house original sculptures from Dali to Mathieu.

Getting there: Eurotunnel runs shuttle trains from Folkestone to Calais up to four times an hour. Prices from around £60 return.

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