A country full of contradictions, bright colours and a fascinating political history and population, Cuba really is quite unlike any other place on earth. Havana and honeymooner's paradise Varadero may be Cuba's most famous destinations, but to experience what makes Cuba so special you need to go beyond.
On the opposite end of the island from Havana is the edgy, pulsing city of Santiago de Cuba while on the western coast is the culturally rich and elegantly cool Cienfuegos with its amazing boutique hotel, the Palacio del Valle.
It's a country best explored on a road trip and if you're going to do it, do it fast. With the US beginning to relax its rules on Cuba, it probably won't be long before this time warp of a country (no multinational brands or advertising anywhere) is changed forever once it starts catering to the American tourist.
How to do it: the essential Cuba guide
While we managed to travel the 14-hour drive from Havana to Santiago de Cuba (located at the opposite end of the island) in a few days, we wouldn't recommend it. To best enjoy the route, leave yourself a day or two per city plus traveling time.
Fly direct from London into Holguín at the southeastern end of the island, which is affectionately known as the city of parks and features plenty of restored buildings and plazas. Cuba's fourth largest city is more laid back than Havana or Santiago de Cuba, making it a hassle-free and perfect beginning for your Cuban adventure.
Ready for some action? Drive to Santiago de Cuba, Cuba's second largest city and Havana's edgier and more exotic little sister. The mountainous terrain and backdrop over the Caribbean Sea makes this one of Cuba's most beautiful cities. A melting pot of ethnicities, Cuba's musical hub and home to Carnival, this city is also one of Cuba's most joyous. Check into the five-star hotel Meliá Santiago for unparalleled service and views.
After the riotous Santiago de Cuba head to the culture vulture's city of Bayamo. The capital of Cuba's eastern province Granma has been a long-established centre for philosophy and the arts. Bayamo is also known for its rich tradition of Cuban national pride, often being referred to as ‘the birthplace of Cuban nationality' and ‘the cradle of Cuban Revolution'.
Looking for some serious sun lounging? The beach of Santa Lucia and its spectacular coral reef aren't far away from Camagüey. But don't miss the old town itself, where the streets were designed to resemble a maze as a deterrent to pirates.
Perhaps not as beautiful as nearby Trinidad, Sancti-Spiritus is still worth a visit to see Cuba's oldest church, the Parroquial Mayor and the Colonial Art Museum, a former home of one of Cuba's richest families, Valles Ignaza.
Trinidad is one of Cuba's most enchanting places. Don't miss it. The city features charming cobbled streets and one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial towns in the world, earning it the status of a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Dubbed the ‘Pearl of the South', Cienfuegos is another worthy World Heritage site featuring exquisite architecture and culture. Want to be wowed? You won't find a more awe-inspiring luxury hotel than the ornate Palacio del Valle.
Santa Clara was one of the first major cities to be liberated by Che Guevara and is the city to take those iconic Cuba snapshots. No trip to Cuba is complete without a trip to the Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara, an imposing monument, mausoleum and museum complex. Santa Clara can easily be done in a day, and just a few short hours away is Cuba's capital, Havana.
The can't-miss Cuba guide to Havana
Forget Sex And The City. If sex were a city it would be Havana. It's hot, sultry and just the right side of rough around the edges.
Soak up the atmosphere by wandering the streets, people watching and admiring the mix of architectural styles. When the steamy streets get too much stop for a perfectly mixed ice-cool mojito in the beautiful gardens of the famed Hotel Nacional (Calle 21, Vedado, Plaza), where everyone from Winston Churchill to supermodels have stayed.
Feel the urge to shop? Head to Old Havana, where you'll find the Havana Club Rum Museum and the Cigar Hotel (Hotel Conde de Villanueva, Calle Mercarderes 202) to stock up on souvenirs. Ernest Hemmingway's favourite hangout, El Floridita (Calle Obispo 557), where the daiquiri was made famous is also nearby. Had too much rum? Make a pit stop at Farmacia Taquechel, (Calle Obispo 155), a beautiful old pharmacy filled with wonderful antiquities not to mention modern-day medicines and hangover cures.
Where to eat
If there's one place to eat in Havana, it's at Paladar La Guarida (Calle Concordia 418). Housed up three flights of stairs in a crumbling apartment block, the lack of pretension is refreshing considering its winning mix of truly delicious food and atmosphere (Cuban film Fresa y Chocolate was filmed here). The restaurant has attracted everyone from A-list celebrities to heads of state and serves superb Cuban nueva cocina with mains like chicken with honey and lemon sauce. Make sure to book well in advance. A meal with food, drinks and service averages about £35 per person.
Housed in the Meliá Cohiba hotel is the Havana Café. Food (burgers, chicken) and cocktails are more than tasty, but the real draw is the entertainment. Along with catching some of Havana's best salsa bands, see acrobatics, fire-eaters and indulge in some salsa dancing.
But the most famous entertainment spot of all is Tropicana Cabaret, which celebrated its 70th anniversary in 2009. Put on a glittery frock, enjoy some fine dining and cocktails and prepared to be razzle-dazzled, Cuban-style.
Where to stay
Havana has no shortage of chic and charming hotels. Along with the Hotel Nacional (doubles from around £90), the NH Parque Central Hotel also has bags of old world charm. For design-led and boutique properties, check out Hotel Saratoga, easily taking the title of coolest hotel in Havana with its rooftop pool, kitschy bar and fabulous rooms (doubles from around £130). Hotel Santa Isabel looks over one of Havana's oldest and most beautiful squares and makes a mean cocktail (doubles from around £140).
For convenience and gorgeous views, the sky-high Meliá Cohiba (home of Havana Café) is a five star hotel just off Havana's main promenade, the Malecón, making it handy for getting around the city.
The people
From the incredibly warm welcome received in hotels to people we chatted to in the streets, we found Cubans to be generous, humorous, fiercely intelligent and easy-going. Prepare to encounter the ‘Cuban shrug' an relaxed, non-committal shrug of the shoulders Cubans use to answer a myriad of questions from "What happens when Castro dies?" to "Will this coach stop for a toilet break?"
What to pack
From hair ties to mascara, many of life's little essentials we take for granted can be hard to come by in Cuba. Also, don't forget to pack some sexy heels to salsa the night away.
Getting around
There are many independent tour operators that offer trips and excursions to Cuba's most popular spots, but you can feasibly go it alone. Hiring a car is the more flexible option, although Cuban roads are not the best signposted. There are two bus companies that cover long distances, the Viazul and the Astro - the former is better although more expensive. There's also a limited train service available and internal flights available through Cubana.
Getting there
Cubana fly from London Gatwick on Wednesdays to Holguín on the east coast, then on to Havana. The return flight is non-stop to London Gatwick. However, if you are staying more than a week, you can get off in Holguín then take the same flight on following week to Havana for free. Visit www.cubana.cu to find out more.
Virgin Atlantic also fly from London Gatwick to Havana on Sundays and Wednesdays. Visit www.virgin-atlantic.com to find out more.
Money
Confusingly, there are two currencies in Cuba - Cuban Pesos (for locals) and Convertible Cuban Pesos (or CUCs, for tourists). Make sure to only exchange cash at an official exchange house, which is always clearly marked as CADECA and check the currency you have received is CUCs. Be warned, if your bank or credit card is in any way affiliated with an American bank it may not work in Cuba.
Useful hotel links for Cuba
Sol Melia - www.solmeliacuba.co.uk
Cubanacan - www.cubanacan.cu
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