Alaina Vieru
There are places, and there are destinations. Luton: place. London: destination. North Berwick in Scotland is probably a place (a very lovely one at that), but the town's resident hotel and spa is definitely a destination. The Macdonald Marine Hotel & Spa has a very good reputation among those in the know, especially its spa.
But for me, the toughest critic of all is Mum. She's owned a day spa and is an excellent therapist herself. She's accompanied me to some amazing spas, and has no problem telling me exactly what she thinks. "It was okay," she often remarks with a wrinkle of her nose, "but it wasn't great," is her usual verdict. After all - like pizza - even when spas are bad they're good.
But this spa is a very good spa. After four years of us schlepping up and down Britain, Mum has declared this her favourite - and I agree.The hotel
Located just 30 minutes by train from Edinburgh, North Berwick is quite literally the end of the line. When the train stops it's because the sea is there in front of you. The hotel itself is on the water, with a huge expanse of lawn and golf course separating you from the blue grey waves.
The large stone building with attractive curving turrets was built in the 19th century and is a haven for golf lovers. There are 20 courses are located nearby, so perhaps that's why they've also developed such a fantastic spa - to service all the golf widows left behind.
The rooms
If you want to make the most of it, book one of the suites on the top floors which feature beautiful, curved panoramic windows overlooking the sea, along with a telescope to view it from.
The suites are very attractive with lots of dark woods, yellow furnishings and of course, those amazing windows. It was very inviting and the beds were comfortable, too.
The spa
We were told prior to our treatment to undress in our rooms and head down to the spa in the robes and slippers provided, which allowed us to relax before we even arrived.
What makes a spa extraordinary is the staff and their skill. Anyone can be trained to do this, but great spa therapists will put you at ease instantly with friendly smiles and soothing voices, as ours did. We also liked that we were asked about stress levels and frame of mind along with the usual questions on the pre-treatment form.
The spa is located in the lower ground floor and is decorated in dark browns, beiges and blues with some Eastern influences. There's an indoor swimming pool along with plenty of steam rooms. The fabulous French skin care brands Decleor (famous for using heavenly smelling essential oils) and Carita are used in treatments, which include various facials, full-body massages and scalp massages.
I went for the one hour Decleor Aroma Ultimate Body Massage. One problem I have with spa treatments is that therapists take one look at my red (sometimes spotty skin) and instantly think it's oily and acne prone, when in reality it's incredibly sensitive and actually quite dry.
Thankfully, my therapist understood and promised to be gentle. I had gone with the 'relax' massage (you can also choose from detox, flow or tonic) and a creamy mask was first applied to my body and massaged in - gently, yet firmly. The scent of the products was incredibly soothing and the treatment flew by in a daze - I relaxed almost instantly.
Next, I was wrapped in a warm blanket. Since I couldn't decide between a facial and a scalp massage, my therapist did a bit of both.
Afterwards, you're escorted to the relaxation room. It's very warm and low-lit so the process of coming to from your treatment is as calm and gentle as possible. A quick peek in the mirror revealed soft, radiant skin and hardly any redness. Bravo.
Mum went for the age-defying facial which she couldn't stop raving about. She already has lovely skin that's much younger than her sixty-something years but she looked noticeably younger. We both couldn't stop mmming and ahhhing about how good our respective treatments were, and Mum, in her true American-style instructed me to "give those girls a fabulous tip. They deserve it!"
Eating and drinking
The hotel's restaurant, The Craigleith is a very Scottish looking affair, decorated in lots of burgundies and tartan. Service is by quite a young staff who are not faultless, but very sweet and eager to please.
Food is a lovely mix of comforting classics and elegant modern dishes with European touches. Mum started with a risotto with salsify (a type of root vegetable) crisp it and it was perfectly creamy and moreish, while I went for the super fresh tasting scallops.
For main, we both went for the shin of beef and the meat was suitably slow-cooked, full of flavour and falling off the bone. The vegetables and potato to go with it were perfectly cooked and it all looked as pretty as a picture on the plate.
For puddings, we went for the warm apple tart and ice cream along with the Scottish cheese plate - both a satisfying end to a more than satisfying meal.
Who goes there
Golf lovers, spa enthusiasts, couples and families are all included in the mix at this grand Scottish hotel.
What to wear
Go casual during the day, but dinner in the Craigleith is a little smarter. You won't need your fanciest dress but do make an effort.
What to do
Along with the golf, there's plenty to do in and around North Berwick including castles, sandy beaches and charming villages. The hotel is happy to arrange tours and give advice on where to go.
Getting there
We travelled by rail direct from London's St Pancras International to Edinburgh Waverley with East Coast Trains, then onto North Berwick (a further 30 minutes). The hotel is a short taxi ride away from the station. For the best deal on advance fares, book online via nationalexpresseastcoast.com, call 08457 225 225 or visit any staffed station.
Offers
Throughout the summer the Macdonald Marine is offering girly weekends from £150pp (for two sharing) including Decleor back, neck and shoulder massage with express facial, complimentary glass of wine, three course dinner and breakfast.
Macdonald Marine Hotel & Spa, Cromwell Road, North Berwick, East Lothian EH39 4LZ. Rooms start from £122 per night bed and breakfast. To book, ring 0844 879 9130 or visit macdonaldhotels.co.uk/marine.
See more romantic breaks
Boutique weekend in Paris
Mr & Mrs Smith's top 10 sexiest hotel bedrooms
