An alluring array of cultures and religions, Malaysia's heady blend makes it one of the most rewarding of Asia's countries to visit. As a major trading point more than 1,500 years ago for the Chinese and Indians, and later the British, Dutch, Portuguese and Arabs, Malaysia has a refreshingly diverse heritage and an incredibly tolerant atmosphere. Add to that some 30 years of economic boom and political stability and you'll soon discover that this country is one of the most buoyant, positive and wealthy in the region.
Being incredibly safe and having a calendar packed with festivals makes it a great destination for tourists. Oh, and it's a duty-free shopper's nirvana - the clincher, surely? I popped to Penang on the west coast for a touch of colonial heritage and masses of beautiful temples, got a kick out of Kuala Lumpur's frenetic urban sprawl and then went off to lounge on the island of Langkawi with its deserted palm-fringed, sun-bleached beaches.
Places to go
My visit began in Penang, an island off the north-western tip of Peninsular Malaysia. Plan your time here cleverly – there is plenty to feast your eyes on! Georgetown is the bustling commercial hub of the state, where you'll see most evidence of Penang's British colonial past - it was granted independence in 1957. The star-shaped Fort Cornwallis marks the point where English trader Francis Light landed in 1786 and 'took possession' of the island. Of more interest was the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion – a flamboyant masterpiece created by one of China's 'last mandarins and first capitalists'.
The mansion apparently exemplifies perfect feng shui, and its myriad fountains, intricate carvings, Art Nouveau stained glass and screens make it a tranquil must-see. Afterwards take a tri-shaw and stop off at Khoo Kongsi clanhouse – a stunning building with eye-popping gold embellishments and ornamentation. Buddhist temples nestle side by side; the Thai and Burmese temples on the outskirts of Georgetown are particularly remarkable.
Check out the jaw-dropping reclining golden Buddha in the Thai temple and don't miss awe-inspiring Kek Lok Sei, a complex of temples and landcaped gardens - Penang's original Buddhist theme park, and the giant statue of the Goddess of Mercy overlooking the Air Itam Valley. The beautiful butterfly farm in Teluk Bahang will enable you to while away a gentle hour or so. And if it's blissful beaches you're after, you won't go far wrong in Penang - the north coast is famed for its deep turquoise seas. There you will find the popular beach resort, Batu Ferringhi, with expansive stretches of sand and multiple hidden coves. Bliss!
Langkawi
Around 104 tropical islands make up the archipelago of Langkawi, on the very north-western tip of the Peninsula, the most popular being Pulau Langkawi. With its superb beaches, diving, snorkelling and profusion of protected wildlife, Langkawi is every eco-tourist's dream. Unspoilt Pulau Langkawi has mountains, white sands, limestone outcrops and lush vegetation, as well as waterfalls and the Telaga Air Panas Hot Springs.
Take the Mangrove Swamp north of the island for a real treat – you can stroke a stingray and clutch a horseshoe crab at the fish farm, plus feed the neon-bright fish, spot kingfishers, float through bat caves and plant your very own mangrove seed. Round off a spectacular morning with a sumptuous meal at Barn Thai – the finest Thai restaurant I've ever eaten in – and it just happens to be nestling slap-bang in the middle of the mangrove. In an equally dramatic setting with Thai, Malay and Pacific fusion food is the gorgeous Bon Ton resort where you can stay in an antique Malay style house.
For more fishy fun, Underwater World in Pantai Cenang is fantastic, with its exotic array of over 5,000 species of aqua life as well as otters and chameleons. For an eagle's-eye view of the splendid Pulau Langkawi, hop on the island's most recent star attraction – the cable-car ride at Gunung Mat Chingchang.
Kuala Lumpur
Hi-tech, soaring buildings rub shoulders with a mish-mash of colonial, Victorian and Malay architecture in high-octane KL. Visit Merdeka Square to see impressive colonial buildings, and don't miss the jam-packed enclaves of Little India and Chinatown. Round every corner is a thronging, boisterous market – for an intense hit of street life, dive in and soak up the culture. Take a relaxing detour from the nutty city streets and visit the Lake Gardens – a sedate square kilometre of verdant parkland with a butterfly house and orchid gardens. Take tea in the Caracosa Seri Negara, the colonial mansion of the former governor, which is now a refined hotel.
Don't leave town without an exhilarating trip up the fantastically futuristic Petronas Towers - at 450 metres high, it's the world's tallest building. Or try another sky's-the-limit experience with a meal in the (gently) revolving restaurant at the top of Kuala Lumpur Tower. Have a few drinks, then try to locate the loos – the hours fly by! Soon it's time to dip into Kuala Lumpur's legendary nightlife. Try a spot of beautiful-people-watching at Frangipani Bar, then throw a few shapes on the dancefloor at Liquid, a super-funky, super-friendly gay club.
Accommodation
At the top end, try the Rasa Sayang in Penang - a luxury beach-side resort with amazing pools and beach bars. Pelangi Beach Resort in Langkawi comprises charming Malay wooden chalets set in tropical gardens. For relaxed perfection in paradise, visit the Andaman in Datai Bay, Langkawi – the most attractive hotel in the region. There's an idyllic beach, rainforest and views of Thailand on a clear day. The chic and sophisticated JW Marriott in Kuala Lumpur is right in the centre of things and attached to yet another big shopping mall. There are also plenty of cheaper guesthouses, hostels and homestays throughout Malaysia.
Shopping
Malaysia is a mecca for duty-free shopping, with everything from local crafts to all the major designers, cosmetics, luggage, jewellery etc. There are massive shopping malls - Bukit Bingtang, Star Hill, Lot 10 and KLCC in Kuala Lumpur, selling must-have items at pulse-quickening prices. Still in Kuala Lumpur, try Petaling Street market in Chinatown – a rough-and-ready night market selling top-drawer fakes (Gucci, Prada, D&G, Louis Vuitton), plus up-to-the-minute DVDs and CDs at less than a fraction of the usual cost. I picked up 12 DVDs (including Chicago and The Hours) for around a fiver! Penang has its fair share of shopping opportunities, with night markets selling knick-knackery and knock-off designer gear. After visiting Underwater World in Langkawi, pop next door to Zon Shopping Paradise to relieve yourself of some ringgits, the Malaysian currency - the exchange rate is about 7RM to £1. Bargains aplenty, from cut-price Clarins to silk cheongsams.
Food
Malaysia beats all the far-flung places I've travelled to for food. The influence of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Thai cooking styles mean there's something tantalising for every taste. Satay is the obvious choice, and the fish dishes are sublime. For a true taste of Malaysia, go for a nasi campur – a buffet of rice, noodles, curries and satays. Gulai House at the Andaman hotel in Datai Bay, Langkawi was unbeatable for service, presentation and delectable flavours.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies direct to Kuala Lumpur from the UK. There are 18 flights a week from Heathrow and four flights a week from Manchester. For more information or reservations, call 0870 607 9090 or visit malaysiaairlineseurope.com


























