Hong Kong is not so much the place where Far East greets West, as the venue for an all-night party inside Judy Garland's cocktail cabinet. At least that's what it felt like after a weekend sampling the city's cosmopolitan line-up of bars and clubs.
Certainly the handover to China (after 156 years of British rule) in 1997 seems to have done nothing to cleanse Hong Kong of its pleasure-seekers. But a hangover should not be the only souvenir from this grand city that worships deities, commerce and technology in unique rhythm.
You're not going to find a spectacular roster of tourist sights here (the old Supreme Court in Central and the Tin Hau Temple in Tin Hau are two of the few remaining examples of colonial and pre-colonial architecture left standing). It's the city itself that is the curio. The powerful physical presence of a ferociously modern Hong Kong and the cultural complexity of seven million Asian and Western inhabitants is what bites you.
International banker or local tailor, everyone in Hong Kong is working hard to improve their lot. The atmosphere is frenetic and the hybrid of new and ancient culture fascinating - not forgetting the exotic range of shopping opportunities on every corner.
Things to do
Hong Kong is safe, clean and simple to navigate, thanks to its compact format and efficient transport systems - the most remarkable of which is the world's longest outdoor escalator that moves people from Central's office blocks uphill to their Mid-Level apartments.
The city straddles Victoria Harbour, with the mainland peninsula of Kowloon on one side and Hong Kong Island on the other. Cross to Kowloon on an antique Star Ferry for a fabulous view of the towering mirrored skyscrapers that make Hong Kong feel like it might be the inside of a large microchip. Disembark at Tsim Sha Tsui and you'll soon notice that Kowloon is grittier than the pristine and glamorous Hong Kong Island.
Walk up Nathan Road to find a hectic fusion of flaking guesthouses, gaudy shops and expensive hotels. And don't miss the raft of markets that typify street Hong Kong in Yau Ma Tei or Mong Kok.
Back on the Island the main attraction is Victoria Peak. Climb aboard the improbably steep Peak Tram to reach the 400m plateau that's home to a shopping complex and some of the flashiest real estate in Hong Kong. It's well worth circuiting the 3.5km loop roads to take in the impressive cityscape below and views that take in Macau and outlying islands.
Ground yourself again with a morning session of graceful Tai Chi. This traditional Chinese practice really does restore harmony to a jet-lagged body and is one of several cultural activities offered free to visitors by the Hong Kong Tourist Board (visitor hotline +852 2508 1234). Other restorative measures can be found on the south side of the island, where there are beaches to relax on and a rugged coastline to hike. Alternatively, back in town head for the Man Mo temple and divine what the future holds using chim (fortune sticks).
Shopping
There is nothing you cannot get in Hong Kong. You will find mile after mile of polished malls crammed with (mainly European) designer goods (Pacific Place in Admiralty being one of the best), and plenty of well-priced local high-street stores to lure you in at Causeway Bay and Granville Road in Kowloon. But the quirkier gems are to be found in the tiny makeshift shopping centres occupied by design graduates who can't afford glitzier digs. Don't miss the unlikely Rise Commercial Building behind Granville Road or Island Beverley in Causeway Bay.
Good silk chinoiserie is surprisingly hard to find at reasonable prices. After trawling Chinese department stores and the beautifully appointed emporium, Shanghai Tang, I found the solution in Stanley Market, located on the south side of the island. Here you will pick up embroidered clothing, beaded slippers, pretty purses, tea sets and silk cushions. Other required viewing is the Jade Market at Yau Mau Tei and the eclectic fashion, vintage and interior boutiques that litter Soho - south of Hollywood Road. The Design Gallery in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre showcases the best from local accessory and product designers, making it the perfect pick-up for contemporary gifts.
Food and fun
These two things are in plentiful supply. Lan Kwai Fong is the hub of the night trade for the international crowd, with loud bars and a perennial campus-type atmosphere catering for wild young things, but Soho and Boho (north of Hollywood Road) would be my first choice for a slightly more laid-back evening. Seek out hot-spots Alibi, Boca and Feather Boa for slinky cocktails and snacks. And if you can't get past the red rope into Dragon-I or make it onto the guest-list at Drop, head just round the corner to Edge, where, with luck, you'll discover an enthusiastic cover band and a warm crowd.
For a more intimate experience, go for some very special (and spicy) Sichuan cuisine at the Tai Ping Huo private dining room. The set menu is lovingly prepared by the chef and proprietor, who treats guests to a haunting high-pitched ballad at the end of the sitting. You won't find any tourists here and booking is essential (2559 1317). Stauntons (corner of Staunton St and Shelley St) in Soho has a brasserie mix of international food and is the perfect place to watch people slide by on the escalator.
With cooking at the heart of Chinese culture, do try the little steamed parcels of deliciousness that are the mainstay of dim sum, to be shared for breakfast or lunch with friends and family in noisy teahouses across the city. For formal dining but scrumptious Cantonese food, head for the Golden Bauhinia (in the Convention and Exhibition Centre) and chew over the harbour view. The variety of eating experiences on offer pairs with Hong Kong's smorgasbord of retail therapy. Noodle stall to deluxe restaurant, don't be afraid to experiment, and don't be afraid to point and smile in lieu of fluent Cantonese.
Where to stay
The celeb-soaked Peninsula, if you're arriving in a helicopter, with its Philippe Starck-designed Felix Restaurant & Bar (www.peninsula.com). Otherwise check out the comfortable Salisbury YMCA Hotel next door (www.ymcahk.org.hk). It has the same fabulous harbour views at a fraction of the price.
Getting there
The best time to visit is between October and April. For more information on Hong Kong visit the Hong Kong Tourism Board website www.discoverhongkong.com or call 020 7533 7100. For flight reservations contact Cathay Pacific on 020 8834 8888 or www.cathaypacific.com.
