Croatia

The beautiful landscape, clean Adriatic sea, and majestic old buildings are as appealing
as ever.

The people, by and large, are warm, open-minded and highly educated. The rich cultural heritage that has made Croatia what it is today cannot fail to capture the imagination of the curious traveller.

The tourist season runs from April to October. The best months to visit for hiking and biking are April, May, September and October, when the countryside is at its most colourful and temperatures are not too high. The sea is warm enough to swim in by mid-May and can remain so until early October. If you are in search of lively nightlife, go in August. However, remember that August does get very hot (an average of 29ºC in Dubrovnik) and very busy. Car drivers have to queue for hours to board ferries for the islands and many hotels and private rooms are booked up in advance.

Highlights: Zagreb
The original 13th-century town walls had four gates, of which only Kamentina Vrata remains. Zagreb's baroque Crkva Sv Katarine (St Catherine's Church) is considered one of the most beautiful pieces of Baroque architecture in the country. Built by Jesuit monks in the early 17th century, the interior is crusted with sugary pink and white stucco-work that resembles icing on a cake.

Plitvice Lakes
This 8km chain of lakes linked by waterfalls is one of inland Croatia's biggest
tourist attractions.

Adriatic Coast
With its archipelagos and bays, the Adriatic Coast is ideal for sailing. Its 41 marinas are well equipped with diving centres, shops and restaurants. Sailing boats can be rented from the bigger marinas, where you will also find sailing schools.

Dubrovnik
The highlight of Dubrovnik is its old walled town, which remains intact despite the shelling it received during the 1990s war. These city walls were built between the 13th and 16th centuries and are arguably the finest city walls in the world. They run for over a mile and offer superb views.

Rovinj
A picturesque town on the Istrian coast. The old town, confined to a small peninsula presided over by a hilltop cathedral, remains unspoiled.

Getting there
Croatia Airlines operates direct flights from London to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. Contact www.croatiaairlines.hr. There are buses to Zagreb from cities in Germany, Hungary, the Netherlands and Belgium. Trains link Zagreb to cities in Italy, Germany, Austria, Hungary and Romania, and ferries arrive from Greece
and Italy.

Getting around
Rail travel is limited, but there are services between Zagreb and Split via Dalmatia, and between Zagreb and Rijeka, passing through the beautiful forests of Gorski Kotar. There is a comprehensive coach (long-distance bus) network connecting all parts of the country, but they get busy in the summer months and some journeys can be slow. Croatia Airlines has daily flights from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, Pula, Split and Skopje. Ferries offer a service between Dubrovnik and Rijeka, between Pula, Mali Losinj and Zadar, and to most of the larger islands.

Metered taxis are available in all major towns and resorts, as is car rental. A car will give you greater independence, and the coastal road is exceptionally beautiful. On the down side, tolls are payable on a number of motorways, and parking in the coastal towns can be extremely difficult.

Accommodation
Croatia's hotels tend to fall into two categories: those built in the tourist boom of the 1970s – vast structures rather lacking in character – and older hotels that date back to the early 20th century. Prices depend on the season, and for stays of less than three days you might have to pay a 30% surcharge.

On the islands, private rooms (most with self-catering facilities and en-suite bathrooms) are recommended. Most families are very welcoming and hospitable.

What to eat
In Istria and Dalmatia seafood tops the menu: fish and shellfish are invariably prepared with lots of olive oil, parsley and garlic. Favourite starters are salat od hobotnice (octopus salad) or dagnje (mussels). If you visit the island of Mljet, try the excellent jastog (lobster). The most popular meat throughout the country is janjetina (lamb): in the Dalmatian countryside many roadside restaurants display a whole lamb roasting on a spit. In Dalmatia and Istria you will hear of peka or cirepnja. This is a traditional method of cooking meat and vegetable dishes in a metal dome buried in glowing embers. Restaurants require you to order peka a day in advance, usually for a minimum of four diners.

Typical Croatian desserts include palacinke (pancakes) and various strudle (pies) filled with jabuka (apple), tresnja (cherry) or sir (cream cheese). Sladoled (ice cream) is almost as popular on the east Adriatic as in Italy.

Dos and don'ts
Topless sunbathing is common on beaches, as is nudism on selected beaches. However, scanty beachwear is not acceptable in shops and restaurants. Modest dress is expected in churches.

Tips are not included in bills, and it is usual to add 10%.

Useful contacts
Croatian National Tourist Board
Ilica 1a, Zagreb
Tel: 01 4556 455
www.hr/hrvatska/tourist

Tourist information office in the UK: 2 The Lanchesters, 162–164 Fulham Palace Road, London W6 9ER. Tel: 020 8563 7979

Crime and security
Be aware that there continues to be isolated outbreaks of violence in the formerly Serb-held area of Eastern Slavonia on the Croat-Slovak border. There are also hundreds of anti-personnel mines scattered in the region. Dangerous areas are fenced off and posted with warning signs, but it is best to avoid such areas.