Not many European cities can claim to have been created by the touch of a goddess's spear but then Athens is unique in a number of different ways. The city itself dates back to 3000 BC and became the unarguable cultural focal point of the world.

Cynics would argue that the city has been in decline since it was overshadowed by the Roman empire and anyone who visited Athens in the past would not be surprised to learn that the word 'chaos' originates from Greek but, just like Barcelona in 1992, the momentum of the Olympics in August could well spur Athens to reclaim its status as one of the world's true great cities.

Getting around
In geographical terms, the Athens metropolitan area comprises a small plain, surrounded by mountains, that extends about seven miles towards the Aegean Sea and includes the bustling port of Piraeus, gateway to the Greek islands. Within the plain lie a number of hills, the most famous of which is the world-famous Acropolis, around which the city grew. Greater Athens has a population of just over three million people with just over three quarters of a million living in what can be called the city centre itself.

Where to stay
Right now there are nearly 30,000 hotel rooms (57,000 beds) available in the Athens area. The city authorities have begun a huge policy of upgrading hotel accommodation in preparation for the Olympics, even for the lower category hotels. With this in mind, there is a lot of accommodation available right now but perhaps the question that needs to be asked in addition to where, is when to stay. Right now you can get some cracking deals with 2-star accommodation in the Stanley Hotel Karaiskaki Square (Piraeus) costing from £24 per person per night. Amazingly, rooms at the 4-star Novotel Athens overlooking the Acropolis can be purchased from £36 per night. A double room at the excellent 5-star Divani Caravel, popular with the business community, should cost around £125 per night.

Nearby the luxury 5-star Grande Bretagne Hotel costs from £153 per person per night but do expect to be spoilt. However, availability can be a problem due to popularity and this will only get worse - and prices will rocket - around the time of the Olympics.

When to go
Whilst most people see Athens during the blistering summer months, the city is actually excellent all year round and having visited in December, I'd certainly recommend seeing Athens before the maddening crowds. Virtually all of the major sites are open although be warned that they close early, in particular the Parthenon.

Food & drink
Greece is a food lovers' delight. There is a vast array of restaurants and tavernas on offer at all price levels. Food and drink are taken very seriously by the Greeks and especially if you enjoy the Mediterranean cuisine, you are in for a treat. Just walk anywhere around the city centre and you'll encounter somewhere to match your taste or pocket. The good new for vegetarians is that unlike in some other Mediterranean countries, your tastes won't be regarded as odd and there should be a good range of veggie dishes at all places. They are a bit heavy on cheese though. Greece is also home to a number of good beers, quite nice domestic wines and some very strong spirits. There's something for everyone here.

How to get there
There are regular cheap direct flights - EasyJet flies to Athens as well as BA - to the brand spanking new Eleftharios Venizelos. Flight time is just under four hours. The new airport, about 15 miles to the east of the city, is a blessed relief to those with bad memories of the old one. Also, a lot of money has been invested in the surrounding infrastructure, meaning that car journeys into town are now measured in minutes - about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the traffic, which is still manic downtown - and not hours. Cheap buses are available too and a fast rail link should be up and running this year.