Checking in: The Scotsman, Edinburgh

Alaina Vieru

Whoever said 'getting there is half the fun' obviously never heard of budget airlines. Or volcanic ash. So when we decided on a two-night break from London to Edinburgh, taking the train seemed like the sensible choice: environmentally friendly, less expensive and best of all: easy.

We may not have been taking the Eurostar to Paris, but we felt champagne was in order. While the famous St Pancras champagne bar wasn't open before our morning train, the adjacent St Pancras Grand restaurant serves a champagne breakfast starting at 8am. Ooh, yes please.

St Pancras Grand is old-fashionedly beautiful with top-notch service, making you feel like you're in the days when travel was glamorous. The coffee was strong, the smoked salmon with scrambled eggs perfectly cooked - all absolutely delicious with hot buttered toast. And the champagne? Surprisingly easy to sip at 9am. We could have happily lingered for another glass - but we had a train to catch. With our bellies full and the bubbles doing their magic, we happily snoozed the whole way to Scotland.

Champagne breakfast, £17.50, St Pancras Grand Restaurant, Upper Concourse, St Pancras International, Euston Road, NW1 2QP. For reservations visit www.searcys.co.uk/stpancrasgrand.

The hotel
Our train chugged into Edinburgh's Waverley station and The Scotsman is located just next door at the top of North Bridge. Housed in the former offices to The Scotsman newspaper, we were thrilled to discover a magnificent old Victorian building awaiting us. The 13 suites all have dramatic views across Edinburgh (the Castle, Princes Street and so on) and as the hotel looks so huge we were surprised that it only has an additional 56 rooms.

The five-star hotel has been sympathetically renovated and history pumps through the building, from the state-of-the-art gym located on the lower ground floor (where the printing presses once pounded), to the North Bridge Brasserie in the former reception hall.

Eating and drinking
With large windows and high ceilings, the brasserie is imposing yet easy-going and relaxed. Everything about it somehow just clicks and works together beautifully: the atmosphere, the food, the wine (a smashing 2008 Panul Estate Merlot, the loveliest house red we ever had) and the service.

Our waitress was incredibly charming, and helped us navigate through the seasonal menu. Starters - a goat cheese tian along with a blue cheese, pear and walnut salad - were lovely, but the main of chicken breast cooked sous vide (a process where the meat is put in a bag and slow cooked in a warm "bath") with gnocchi, mushrooms, spinach, butternut squash and cream sauce, along with a banoffee cheesecake dessert (died and gone to heaven good) - were truly memorable. I'm struggling to remember a lunch I enjoyed more than this one.

Breakfast in the hotel is also superb. Cleverly served on crockery printed with real headlines from the newspaper (thankfully nothing to put you off your food), we had the traditional Scottish breakfast with haggis, all of which was hearty and tasted of quality ingredients. Good coffee, too.

If you do want to venture outside of the hotel, they are happy to make recommendations. Want to know where to go in Edinburgh? Ask Barry. The friendly concierge happily gave us the low-down on where to go, whether it was for whiskey and haggis or something more special. Like all the staff, he was a true professional and it was a level of service that just can't be faked.

The Publisher's Suite
Never before had we squealed with such delight in getting into a room. Located high on top of the hotel, we had a spectacular view, massive bed, charming sitting room (nice games and magazines) and best of all, our own sauna. It certainly wasn't the fanciest suite we've stayed in but we absolutely loved it - it was the perfect mix of understated luxury and relaxation.

After our full-on lunch (not to mention breakfast) and with a suite as good as this, we weren't going anywhere. Thankfully, the Scotsman has a great room service menu and the Publisher's Suite even has its own little door and cubby where food can be dropped off without disturbing you.

The spa
This is a hotel that clearly knows what it's doing and how to treat its guests. The Scotsman Spa was no different. The new Thalgo spa is beautifully decorated, modern and soothing. We absolutely loved the relaxation room and were loathe to leave. Super comfy chaise lounges, low lights, great magazines and fresh fruit were most inviting.

Thalgo is a French skin care brand which harnesses the power of the sea and marine ingredients. I went for the Top To Toe signature treatment (£100 for an hour and 25 minutes).

After a consultation with my therapist I was given a facial tailored to my sensitive skin. It was first cleansed with milks and gentle brushes before progressing into a dreamy full-body massage using algae petals, sea salts and warm compresses. A mask was then applied to my back, neck and shoulders followed by a pressure point-led foot massage. I emerged super soft and soothed.

My mum went for the Plump Up The Volume facial (£65 for 55 minutes), where soluble Collagen is massaged onto the face to combat the signs of fine lines and ageing. The result? Bright, toned skin that left her looking fresh-faced and younger than her years.

What to wear
While this is a smart, five-star luxury hotel the vibe is relaxing and welcoming. We were in nice jeans for lunch, but perhaps we'd go for the more dressy side of casual when dining in the evening.

Who goes there
We spotted a real mix, from chic couples to friendly families. The location, service, atmosphere, food and spa is a real draw to anyone. Did we say how much we loved this hotel?

What to do
The Scotsman is in an ideal location. Edinburgh Castle and the shopping of Princes Street are just a few minutes walk away. The hotel is happy to recommend other activities in the area, and in August, of course, is the Edinburgh Festival.

Getting there
We travelled by rail direct from London's St Pancras International to Edinburgh Waverley with East Coast Trains. For the best deal on advance fares, book online via www.nationalexpresseastcoast.com, call 08457 225 225 or visit any staffed station.

The Scotsman, 20 Northbridge, Edinburgh EH1 1YT. The Scotsman is set in the former home of The Scotsman newspaper in a Victorian building at the top of North Bridge in Edinburgh. There are 56 guest rooms and 13 suites all with dramatic views over Edinburgh - the Castle, Princes Street, Calton Hill and The Firth of Forth. Rates start at £130. To book, ring 0131 556 5565, email reservations@tshg.co.uk or visit theetoncollection.com/scotsman. For the Scotsman Spa please visit scotsmanspa.com