There are several key hair trends to carry you through the autumn/winter season. These have been created by the crème de la crème of session stylists to complement the runway shows of the fashion elite and will set the tone for the months ahead and inspire salons across the country. This season - as always - the trends are distinct from each other, but united by the return of retro. From '20s Flappers to '80s New Wavers – the theme is 20th-century foxes.
The Roaring '20s
Last winter we all went Chicago crazy - the film garnered six Academy awards and suddenly sequins, satin, feathers and dolly shoes were all the rage. Fringed bobs, gamine crops, A-line and angular cuts and soft marcel wave-type textures are stylish ways to wear shoulder length. For shorter locks think geometric shapes, sharp partings, slicked down Eton crops and androgynous gelled styles. Out go just-out-of-bed looks and in comes clean, crisp hair with a glossy sheen. If your hair is long, you can wear it parted in the middle and tied back into a low ponytail or chignon.
The vibe: Femme fatale
Got the look: On celluloid – Catherine Zeta Jones, Renée Zellweger and Carrie-Anne Moss in Matrix Reloaded.
Must-have product/technique: Colour should be richer with a sophisticated intensity. Go to your nearest L'Oréal Professionnel salon and experience the Luo colour treatment (from £20, depending on location). It's a permanent block colour but is translucent and shows off the hair's natural tones rather than masking them.
Screen goddess
Post-war glamour embraced luxury and femininity. Structured tailoring inspired by the '40s- and '50s-style cocktail dresses demand immaculate, elegant hairstyles - think Lauren Bacall and Grace Kelly. Multi-textured effects featuring sleek crown areas and smooth luxurious curls are perfect for shoulder-length hair. Side partings and volume are a good starting point, and gamine crops also work with these fashion eras.
There will be lots of immaculate buns, twists and rolls, accessorised with hair clip. Forget loose tendrils unless you feel too exposed without them. The fluid knot at Paco Rabanne and low-slung coil at Gucci were particularly gorgeous. If you're not particularly skilful, keep it simple but stylish with a high ponytail as seen at Julien Macdonald. A favourite of Sarah Jessica Parker, the ends of your hair can be coiled and pinned into place for a boho-ballerina effect.
The vibe: Hitchcock heroine
Got the look: Gwen Stefani, Madonna. SJP, Kate Hudson and Nicole Kidman are crazy about sleek little updos
Must-have product/technique: Waves and curls are still going to be big, but with a more polished finish. If you're fair-haired, platinum and icy blonde tones are staging a comeback.
Swinging '60s
Sensual tousled feminine hair at Marc Jacobs and Anna Molinari reveal that the spirit of the original sex kitten, Brigitte Bardot, lives on. Hair was teased and tousled to the point of becoming an art form at Chanel, and beehives created a buzz at Donna Karan.
Straight styles will be worn sleeker and longer than in recent times. The emphasis on fringes will remain: grown-out and peekaboo reflect the mood for easy, sexy hair, but no fringe and a centre parting makes an equally welcome return, as seen at Bally, where Marc Jacobs, Matthew Williamson and Versace put on a hippy, beatnik fusion parade.
The vibe: Barbarella meets Woodstock
Got the look: Emma Bunton - from Baby to 'Yeah, baby' - Kate Moss, Demi Moore, Ab Fab's Patsy
Must-have product/technique: To create a bouffant effect at the roots, set hair on Denman Thermo Magic Rollers (£4.50) at the crown or backcomb discreetly. Leave the front sections sleek so they can be smoothed over the top of your bird's nest effect. Either wear your hair loose, in a French pleat or tied back with a satin ribbon. Set in place with Elnett hairspray (from £1.99). Use the end of your tail comb to plump and preen as necessary.
The Weighty '80s
Popular youth movements of 20 years ago are revived. Mod, Ska, New Wave and Goth influences are edgy yet very wearable, and cropped up at shows including Helmut Lang, McQueen and Dior. Precisely rounded pageboys and asymmetric bob shapes with heavy blunt and curved fringes are a funky way to wear shorter hair. The androgynous look is back with mannish cuts for women. For longer lengths retain movement and texture, but introduce layers and disconnection and shattered edges. It's a little bit Debbie Harry, a little bit Chrissie Hynde - and very much rock 'n' roll.
Stronger, more defined cuts call for high-impact colour. Rich, dark shades add glossiness – expect to see lots of soft black, while coffee and caramel and palest white blonde are tempting tones for highlights. Turn heads with stripes and blocks of bold colour: blonde on chocolate and red or blue on black.
The vibe: Pop-culture vamp
Got the look: Sophie Ellis Bextor, Kelly Osbourne, Sadie Frost, Pink, Lysette Anthony, Jane Goldsmith, Eve
Must-have product/technique: TIGI Bed Head Headbanger Way Out Wax For Rock Stars (£12.50, call 0870 330 0955). Wella's innovative in-salon Magmatic Lights High Lightening Colour Service (from £30, depending on salon location, visit www.salonfinder.co.uk) lightens and colours even the darkest hair – including black – permanently, creating stunning effects from blondes to reds, subtle to vibrant without pre-bleaching.
