Clarifying colour speak

hair colour

If you're planning on colouring your hair at home, it's important that you identify the kind of coverage you want and the amount of commitment you're willing to put into its upkeep before purchasing. If you're new to the colouring game it might be advisable to start off with one of the semi-permanent options before graduating to either a demi-permanent or permanent dye. Most manufacturers produce similar shades in each commitment category (often referred to as 'levels', with number one denoting semi-permanent and three equalling permanent with two covering the middle ground.

The science bit
Colour-enhancing shampoos: designed to give colour and condition a bit of a boost between dyeings. Most are suitable for both coloured and natural hair, but always read the label. Check out Té Tao Colour With Herbs Natural Colour Enhancing Shampoo (£3.45) and Protect Conditioner (£3.95), Clynol's Viton Color Shine shampoo (£5.95, call 01296 314189) and the Origins Tealights range (£10, call 0800 7314039).

Temporary colours
Usually termed 'fashion shades' and generally aimed at the teenage chameleon, temporary colours last three to five washes and leave hair feeling soft and conditioned. They are intended for use on 'virgin' hair (that is, uncoloured). Pigments adhere to the hair's surface and will subtly darken the natural colour, but will not lighten hair because they do not contain bleaching agents. For more vibrant results, leave the colour to develop for longer, as directed. Temporary colours are available in several formats, including shampoo-in sachets and no-mess mousses. Check out: Wella Shaders & Toners (£1.25), Alberto VO5 Colour Mousse, (£3.99) and Superdrug Effects (99p).

Semi-permanent colour
This lasts approximately six to eight washes and will enrich or darken tones and colour and soften the appearance of any stray grey hairs. Again, it will not lighten hair because it does not contain peroxide, but can be used to refresh permanent colour between treatments. Check out: Clairol Glints (£3.99), Clairol Loving Care (£3.99) and Boots Colour Semi-Permanent (£2.69).

Demi-permanent (aka longer lasting semi-permanent colour)
Here, the colour lasts between 12 and 24 washes and enriches or darkens the hair, softens grey, but will not lighten. Containing low levels of peroxide it takes longer to wash out than a semi-permanent colour because the hair's cuticle layer is penetrated. Check out: Nicky Clarke Colour (£7.99) and Schwarzkopf Country Colours (£5.29).

Permanent colour
This type of dye will significantly lighten or darken the hair and will achieve the most effective grey coverage. It needs careful reapplying to the roots, every six weeks, to cover any regrowth and must be either grown or cut out. A permanent colour lightens the hair because it contains a bleaching agent, hydrogen peroxide and also ammonia. This lifts existing colour pigment and replaces it permanently with new colour molecules. You'll need to retouch the roots every six weeks to cover any regrowth. Check out: Collinge & Collinge Colour (£9.99), Jo Hansford Perfect Colour Permanent (£5.99) and Garnier Nutrisse Nourishing Colour Masque (£5.99).

DIY colour has also been 'sexed up' with the addition of permanent colour products that allow you to get creative with highlights, rather than just boosting your base shade.

Jerome Russell B Colour By You Chunky Lowlights & Fine Highlights and B Colour By You Colour Tips & Vibrant Undertoning (£6.49 each, visit www.jeromerussell.biz) lighten natural hair and add vibrant new colour without the need to pre-bleach. The Umberto Giannini Colours portfolio includes Streaks (£10.99) to introduce chunky flashes of vivid colour.

L'Oréal Paris has secured the likes of Beyoncé, Milla Jovovich, Andie MacDowell and Heather Locklear to extol the virtues of its home hair colourants and has bought new technology to the sector. Couleur Experte (£12.99) is a permanent colouring system, comprising two simple steps for all-over glossy tones with a development time of 25 minutes, plus harmonised highlights can be added with the minimum of fuss using the Precision Brush included in the package.

L'Oréal Feria Metallic Blondes (£7.49) is also new and pushes the limits of blondeness, lifting colour up to an unprecedented four tones - without pre-lightening - for a multi-faceted blonde result. The three metallic shades are specifically for fair hair. Whichever tone you choose will boost both base shade and highlights.

Finally...
If you find your new shade a bit intense, tone it down with Daniel Galvin's Miracle Solution Colour Corrector (£5.99). This works its magic inside the hair shaft to help neutralise unwanted colour, leaving a more natural looking result. However, it won't work on hair that has already been bleached. If you have used a permanent colour to lighten up or change your natural tone completely and you're unhappy with the results, your only option – apart from a number-one crop - is to have colour correction done at a reputable salon.

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