The discomfort of a sensitive scalp can have sufferers scratching their heads as to the cause. Often self-diagnosed incorrectly as dandruff, it's usually a case of reaching for a medicated shampoo, when the real cause – side effects of modern day living - goes undiagnosed. Stress, pollution, chemical allergies, hormonal imbalances, poor diet and even changes in weather conditions can all be contributing factors, and up to 46% of us can be affected by this irritating condition.
What causes it?
For most, sensitivity issues are temporary – the results of physically harsh treatment or an emotionally tough time. Philip Kingsley is a leader in the field of trichology. He says, 'Scalp sensitivity is complicated. Most people are not scalp sensitive, but there are times when a series of circumstances cause a reaction when usually there would be none. The main instigators are stress factors and they can trigger a change in scalp secretions - sebum and sweat - leading to a hitherto unknown reaction to innocuous substances. The sensitivity can vary between a mild itch to an intense irritation, tenderness or inflammation, which can be comparable to an allergy. Some medication can cause a slight change in skin secretions, which can react with products used on scalp or hair. Asthma and eczema sufferers - conditions which are usually genetic - can be more prone to scalp sensitivities.'
What makes it worse?
For too long, too many of us have been speed shampooing and taking shortcuts, and yet not putting two and two together when it comes to irritation issues. 'Lack of proper care can lead to a dry, itchy, flaky scalp. This could be as a result of water that's too hot, not rinsing thoroughly and a lack of scalp massage,' says Melissa Christenson, Marketing Director for Shampoos and Conditioners for Aveda. The launch of Scalp Benefits Balancing Shampoo, £11.50 (250ml) and Balancing Conditioner, £13.00 (200ml) coincides with a new Aveda Salon Shampoo Massage. For salon and home, using slow and vigorous finger movements, it promotes a healthy, clean scalp by removing excess sebum, increasing circulation, releasing congested energy and facilitating relaxation.
Over-use of harsh products can sometimes cause irritation – surface-active substances and synthetic fragrances are amongst the more obvious bad guys. Chemical treatments such as colouring and perming can cause adverse reactions too. Philip Kingsley says, 'The incidences of scalp sensitivity to shampoos, conditioners and styling aids are less than may be commonly thought. It's hair colouring that has the potential to be a problem and there are instances of severe allergic reactions to para phenylene diamine (PPD), an ingredient in permanent and some semi-permanent colours. This can be avoided though, by skin testing 24 hours prior to application. Another strange thing about sensitivities is that a person can use the same products for months or even years, then suddenly, inexplicably, the scalp can become sensitive - usually temporarily.' Tints of Nature Permanent Hair Colour £7.95, (www.herbuk.com) contains less than 1% of PPDs and uses the mildest grade peroxide to fix the colour. Available in 24 shades they contain organically grown ingredients.
Scalp-friendly products
There are an increasing number of haircare ranges being created with scalp care in mind. Neutrogena Healthy Scalp Shampoo, from £2.59 and 2 in 1 Shampoo, £3.49 are non-irritating and balancing. Kuan Stimulating Scalp Rub, £4.99 is designed to help remove dead skin cells and re-hydrate scalp and hair. Simple's new Sensitive Scalp Formula products from £2.59 (www.keep-life-simple.com) provide 100% perfume- and colour-free haircare in Normal, Dry/Damaged and Coloured hair categories. In the salon you'll find the latest trends in skincare systems for the scalp. Schwarzkopf BC Hair and Scalp Therapy, from £7, (www.schwarzkopf-professional.com) is a tailor-made range to treat conditions including sensitive scalps, flaky scalp conditions and over-burdened hair. The customised treatments contain one of the smallest amino acids: 'Glycine' which slips through the hair's outer structure and deeply penetrates the inner cortex, replenishing lost acids and regenerating hair with time-released care agents. Alterna's Life Scalp Solution System includes a sulfate-free shampoo, conditioner and a concentrated pre-treatment, which combine to soothe and relieve a dry, itchy, irritated scalp. Prices from £22.50. Call 0845 4582825. Clynol i-D Relax Scalp Tonic, £7.65 (www.clynol.com) calms and cares for the scalp and helps reduce dandruff conditions.
What else helps?
Switching to a more sympathetic haircare regime will help alleviate scalp problems, but if a toxic lifestyle is at the root of the matter, relaxation techniques, regular fresh air and exercise and a diet rich in hair-friendly ingredients are just as important.
