Shady characters

Dita von Teese

An injection of colour is often the key to hairdo nirvana; even the wash-in wash-out variety will produce a glossy boost and pep-up a permanent shade. However the potential to get it wrong is considerable. Nine times out of ten success is achieved by making a perfect marriage between features and follicles, improving on Mother Nature by accentuating eye colour and enhancing the complexion, rather than going all-out for a radical departure of the Joss Stone 'purple haze' variety.

Colour speak decoded
Colourists talk all the time about different shade variations – there's more than one tone of blonde, brunette and red.

Cool blonde family

Think white-blonde Scandinavian hair colours such as platinum, pearl, ash, pale beige and champagne. These are labelled cool tones and tend to suit those with ivory or soft-pink tinged complexions and blue or grey eyes.
Wow: The most iconic of hair colours that's memorably graced the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Debbie Harry and Madonna. Ice princess or sex kitten, you decide.
Whoa: Too much bleach looks trashy and will trash hair's condition into the bargain. This shade demands a lot of commitment in terms of both cost and time with roots needing to be retouched every 4-6 weeks.
Work it: John Frieda Sheer Blonde Luminous Colour Glaze Shine Booster Platinum to Champagne, £6.99.

Cool blondes: Hot star hues Gwyneth Paltrow – experiments with blonde shades right across the spectrum. Her latest flirtation with palest pearl gives her an ethereal quality. Gwen Stefani – platinum blonde locks contrast dramatically with brown eyes, but Gwen's fearless approach to full-on glamour means she carries this look off every time. Sienna Miller - cool baby blonde lights up the room and flatters fine hair. The lightest are positioned through the front and top sections.

Warm blonde family
Rich blonde tones encompass honey, old gold, sandy, bronze, strawberry and light copper colours. They suit a 'peaches and cream' complexion with yellow undertones, and are flattering to olive skins. Will add vibrance to brown, hazel or green eyes.
Wow: A combination of honey, caramel and gold will add multi-tonal depth and texture. To keep things interesting the quantities of each can be increased and decreased to reflect seasonal changes.
Whoa: Brown eyes, dark brows and blonde hair need balancing and picking up on. A toning brown combined with blonde will make the results more believable.
Work it: Redken Blonde Glam Fresh Gold Colour-Activating Treatment, £11.50 (0800 444880)

Warm blondes: Hot star hues Jade Jagger – her beloved bronze colour is transformed with old gold lights blended with some creamier tones through the front for a sunkissed effect. The colour complements her tanned complexion. Cat Deeley – delicious multi-tonal mix of toffee, honey and creamy blonde slices, which work well with her heavily layered style, hazel eyes and creamy-gold complexion. Madonna – a fusion of golden and light copper blonde, which gives her hair lots of additional texture and warms up her pale skin tone.

Cool brunette family

Blue-eyed brunettes look incredibly striking. Cool ash browns complement a cool complexion due to the dramatic contrast between pale neutral skin and very dark hair. Both blue and grey eyes gain intensity.
Wow:
Darker colours have the most potent light reflecting qualities and so work well with bobs and long styles as they emphasise sleekness.
Whoa: Cool brunette shades are among the most striking, but their lack of warmth can be harsh. Go particularly carefully if you're doing it yourself as dark-brown shades off the shelf often come out as black.
Work it: Aveda Black Malva Shampoo, £7.50 (www.aveda.com)

Cool brunettes: Hot star hues
Cameron Diaz – dark brown hair with a cool violet hue gives Cameron's blue eyes a boost and ushers in a sultry new persona. Sadie Frost – another blue-eyed girl in love with bitter chocolate locks. Cut to bob length the vibe is one of effortless chic. Dita Von Teese – by opting for a glossy raven-black shade, Dita's blue eyes and porcelain complexion are enhanced further. Make-up - a pale base and rosy blush - is integral to the look's success.

Warm brunette family
Bring out your brown, hazel or green eyes with rich golden browns and melting milk chocolate shades. Olive, Asian and Mediterranean skins will be energised by rich chocolates and deep reds and burgundies.
Wow: Warmer shades of brown and dusky reds look great against a tanned skin, intensifying eye colour and making teeth appear whiter.
Whoa: Red and coppery tones are among the quickest to lift and fade and so are best restricted to lowlights.
Work it: Naturtint Reflex non-permanent color rinse, £10.99, (www.naturesdream.co.uk) in 5.0 Light Chestnut Brown

Warm brunettes: Hot star hues Angelina Jolie - her rich truffle mid-brown tone is given added depth with the random old gold slices throughout for a deluxe-natural effect. Davina McCall – whether it's glossy conker, rich burgundy or deep chestnut, brown-eyed Davina sparkles in a spectrum of warm browns. Kate Beckinsale – Hollywood's favourite English Rose enriches her coffee coloured base shade with subtle highlights and contrasting lowlights for a couture ripple of colour.

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