London Fashion Week 2011 - day three
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW11
Season after season, Margaret Howell’s show is notoriously scheduled first thing in the morning. This Sunday was no different, trust me, you’ve never seen so many bleary eyed fashionistas. However, once we spotted a smiling Alexa Chung on the front row – her gravelly cackle is infectious – and the fresh faced models begun to troop down the catwalk, we were back to our usual levels of alertness. And the clothes? Classic and edgy all at the same time, Howell’s autumn/winter collection was said to be inspired by a fictional ballerina rushing to rehearsals all wrapped up to stave off the cold. With that in mind the serene-looking girls were dressed in tweedy coats cinched at the waist, beautifully cut pleated skirts and pinafore dresses. Fabrics ranged from velvets to corduroy to silks. All in all, as expected, it was a stellar collection. The trick to Howell’s success has always been easy to wear, superbly cut clothes in simple styles and a fresh palette. Thankfully she stuck to this winning formula once again.
For those who still think Mulberry is just about the bags, (where have you been?) their autumn/winter show - held at the sumptuous Claridges – would have been a welcome surprise. This gorgeous collection was based on the English countryside but of course with a very London twist. Just when you thought the colours, styles and shapes were predictably autumnal – trench, duffle and pea coats, corduroys, watercoloured printed skirts, belted everything, and even a requisite real life dog to take for walks – there came a flash of the ingenious. An amazing, tiered dress in the most shocking, vibrant green that wouldn’t look out of place hanging out with Andy Warhol, a pleated black skirt adorned with large intricate rosettes and a quilted leather jacket and skirt (a similar quilting to Chanel’s iconic 2.55 bag) were just some of the standout pieces.
Even though you never quite know what you can expect at Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label show, one thing is for sure, it will always be unconventional. This autumn/winter showing was no exception. An ode to Murray Blewett – Ms Westwood’s right-hand man for over 20 years - the show was inspired by his Portobello Road neighbourhood. Westwood summed up this collection as being about “London life and this historical market (Portobello) that draws all classes of our society. It is about Britishness.” And this eclectic ‘Britishness’ was seen in all its glory especially as it was given an Alice In Wonderland angle. Punk yet feminine, it featured her signature checks but also included models dressed up in a way that wouldn’t look out of place at a mad hatter’s tea party. The girls – hair backcombed to within an inch of its life and bursts of colour smudged all over their faces – came down the catwalk wearing a cacophony of styles that included multicoloured wool sweaters and cardigans teamed with pinstripes, velvet two pieces, African inspired prints, silk asymmetrical dresses, frilled blouses and a multicoloured feathered jacket. Head gear – from Trilbies to oversized crowns – also played a big role. And that was just a tiny bit of the 50-strong collection. Now if that doesn’t sum up the idiosyncrasies of British style, I don’t know what does.
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