After months of speculation, Nina Ricci has announced it is to end its relationship with Olivier Theyskens, who has worked as artistic director since November 2006. In a statement, the company said they "have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration". They did not mention a successor, however Peter Copping, previously a design deputy to Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, has been hired as creative director.
The reason for the split is unclear, however it is widely believed to be because of Theyskens' refusal to tow the commercial line. While his work for the house received critical acclaim - bar his notoriously panned spring/summer 2009 collection - his talent did not translate into sales.
The question now is what Theyskens will do next, with some wondering whether he may launch an eponymous label, or even be hired to reinvigorate the dormant house of Schiaparelli.
Whatever he decides, his departure from Nina Ricci makes one thing clear: fashion house owners have a new regard for the bottom line. Talent alone is no longer enough; designers who can get the tills ringing, as well as wow the critics (such as Alber Elbaz does at Lanvin) are the winners in this cash-poor climate.
Picture: A look from the Nina Ricci autumn/winter 2009 collection, Theyskens' final collection for the brand
