Elusive designer Martin Margiela has never been one to take a bow at the end of his catwalk shows (indeed, until the New York Times published his photo last year, even many industry insiders had no idea what he looked like), but it was confirmed over the weekend that he is no longer creatively involved in the famously avant garde label that he established in 1989.

Diesel boss Renzo Russo acquired a majority stake in Maison Martin Margiela in 2002 and there have been whispers ever since about Margiela's continuing involvement. As recently as March this year, the label's chief executive Giovanni Pungetti insisted that "he's still in his position". Russo, however, now has a different story.

"Martin has not been there for a long time," he told newswire WGSN on Saturday. "He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."

Last year, it was rumoured that Margiela had approached Raf Simons to take the reins and been turned down. Haider Ackermann is the latest name in the frame although, as yet, his involvement with the label - which celebrates its 20^th birthday this year - remains merely speculation.

Picture: A model walks for