Those long-running whispers about Giles Deacon and Emanuel Ungaro have today been substantiated: the 40-year-old British designer has been named creative director of the troubled French fashion house.
He will replace Estrella Archs, who left the label last month after a turbulent two seasons. Her spring/summer 2010 collection, which was designed in conjunction with creative consultant Lindsay Lohan, was widely panned by critics in a blaze of negative press. Giles - who has previously served as creative director for Daks as well as running his own label in London - will doubtlessly have been appointed with the aim of bringing some much-needed stability and consistency to Ungaro, which has been in a state of uncertainty since its founder retired in 2004.
Despite the less-than-ideal circumstances, Giles is confident he can rise to the challenge.
"I'm totally aware and respectful of the pressure but at the same time, I've run my own business for eight years and worked in lots of places," he says. "I think as soon as you start worrying and thinking about that too much, you're not concentrating on doing good work, which is the most important thing."
The designer is no newbie to the Parisian fashion scene, having shown his own-name collections there for the past two seasons. He will continue to produce these, he has confirmed, along with his long-standing Giles Gold line for high street chain New Look.
But that's not to say he doesn't have a clear vision of where to take Ungaro, which built its reputation on creating cutting-edge yet wearable luxury.
"I obviously don't want to infringe upon my own line, but I like things that are very feminine, lots of colour, great prints, great quality, some unusual cuts," he tells industry bible WWD. "All of those things that I like in the world of fashion design I'm going to bring to what I feel is appropriate for the Ungaro woman."
Picture: Emanuel Ungaro, autumn/winter 2010.
