It’s fair to say that Barbara Hulanicki is a bit of a legend. The former fashion illustrator founded the iconic London clothes store Biba in 1964 and with it the first affordable fast fashion brand. The shop, which eventually housed a restaurant and roof garden, became as famous for its starry clientele, including Marianne Faithful, Yoko Ono and Brigitte Bardot, as much as for its affordable clothes, and became synonymous with ‘60s London cool.
After leaving the company (Biba closed its doors in 1976 but the label has since been revived by House of Fraser) Hulanicki became an interiors and exteriors designer, working on restaurants, nightclubs and hotels.
Now, following her hugely successful collaborations with accessories brand Coccinelle and Topshop last year, Barbara Hulanicki is back with a collection for George at Asda. The 14-piece range, priced from a purse friendly £8 to £25, features jersey tops, long sleeved mini dresses, cardigans and wide leg trousers with all the style hallmarks Hulanicki fans have come to love, such as swirling florals and animal print spots.
The line hits the shop floor in 95 George stores across the UK and the web through george.com on 29 November, with the next one launching in January 2011 and another pencilled in for March.
Take a look at our highlights from the Barbara Hulanicki for George collection here.
Read on to find out what Barbara had to say in our Q&A...
So, hello Barbara! Can you tell me a little bit about your new collection for George at Asda?
I wanted to design a range for young thinking people of any age, people who are fun and care-free, and I think that I’ve achieved that with this collection. The range features lots of lovely flattering shapes and original prints of mine. Through this collaboration there should be a new collection hitting stores and the web roughly every eight weeks featuring my illustrations. It’s all great quality and good design at a low price, so I’m very pleased.
Could you tell me how the collaboration came about and give an insight into the design process?
I met Fiona Lambert, brand director of George, at a screening of Beyond Biba [the documentary film charting Barbara’s life and career] and we talked about how important affordable fashion is and how just because something’s cheap doesn’t mean it has to be poor quality. We also discussed how little on the high street was original for women of all ages and realised that a collaboration with George would be the perfect solution to this.
It’s been a really hands-on experience for me. I didn’t want to just put my name to a collection and have no creative input. From the illustration sketches right through to going out to the production factory in Turkey, I’ve been getting my hands dirty, so to speak, and that was my main interest in producing this range. It’s been a designer’s dream.
Which item from the collection is your favourite piece and which item do you think will sell the best?
The dresses. It’s always dresses. You get the look in one fell swoop. I love the purple dress with the butterfly print, that’s my favourite.
Is George at Asda the most similar modern day shop to Biba in terms of price?
Yes, most definitely. We actually compared a lot of the prices of pieces from the new collection to Biba and they were exactly the same. And that’s what makes me happy, seeing people buy something without feeling guilty. It’s a real pleasure of mine.
And what’s really brilliant about George is that their stores are nationwide reaching every nook and cranny of the country. In the ‘60s everyone came to London because the train fares were so cheap and they could stock up whilst they were there. But now you have to go to the people.
You were quoted a couple of years ago saying that you would love to do more clothes for the mass public, now you’re doing that, how important is it for shoppers to have collections like this in these financially challenging times?
Hugely. People have to have new clothes, it’s one of life’s little pleasures. Girls didn’t stop shopping during the war and they haven’t stopped now. And I think this collection is the answer.
Mary-Kate Olsen and Alexa Chung were both spotted wearing pieces from your previous collection for Topshop. How important is celebrity endorsement?
It definitely adds a little bit of punch, that’s for sure, especially when it’s these fashionista types of girls. I think it’s really exciting and I’m looking forward to seeing who wears what from this collection once it launches.
Talking of Topshop, your collection for them last year was hugely successful. Are there any plans to collaborate with them again?
Not at the moment, because I’m so involved with George and this collaboration is ongoing. I think we’re really in the groove now.
What do you think of Kate Moss’ collections for Topshop?
I think the Kate Moss Topshop range is fabulous and a true reflection of her. She’s an English style icon. I love her, she’s hilarious. If she’d been around in the ‘60s she would most definitely have been a Biba girl. She embodies that rock ‘n’ roll spirit and freedom that was so prominent in the ‘60s. She’s the ultimate good girl gone bad.
Are there any other celebrities whose style interests you?
I think Alexa Chung is great too, she’s very stylish and original. And also Chloe Sevigny. I think she dresses very interestingly, she always goes against the grain. She’s a real fashion maverick.
You became famous in the ‘60s with the iconic Biba store and label. How has fashion changed since then?
It’s evolved a lot. When we launched Biba there wasn’t any fashion around that was affordable for young people. I bet you can’t imagine what’s it’s like to be starved of something. But that’s what it was like back then when it came to fast fashion. Today everyone’s truly spoilt. Young people have so much choice.
How do girls shop and dress differently now compared to the ‘60s?
They dress in exactly the same way. British girls are very eccentric and fun and don’t follow any rules. However, the power of the web has changed the way they shop. Online blogs and celebrity gossip creates a buzz around certain labels and items and this influences how people shop.
You live in Miami now, how do American high street shops compare to those here in the UK?
They are definitely less imaginative because they are much bigger. America has such a cross section of cultures and nationalities that many of the brands out there feel like they have to please everybody, and that takes away some of the creative freedom. Since the UK is so much smaller everybody’s on the same wavelength and you can be a bit more experimental.
And how does American girls’ style compare to the British?
They are a lot more cautious and follow fashion rules more strictly. They are definitely less individual as they don’t want to appear too kooky. British girls are way more creative and original as a result.
I had a quick look on eBay and pieces from Biba are still hugely popular. Would you ever open up another shop or launch a new label of your own?
No. The production process is so huge now. Things have moved on so much and ways of retailing have moved on. When I launched Biba it was the first affordable fast fashion brand, but that era’s gone. I can relax so much more doing collaborations without the stress of running my own business.
You’ve had a truly amazing life and varied career, what’s next for Barbara Hulanicki?
I have an exhibition of my illustrations opening soon in my hometown of Miami. I’m also busy designing interiors for a group with hotels based in the Bahamas, continuing to work on my collection of wallpaper and paint that’s sold through Habitat, as well as my collections for George. I really can’t complain.
Thanks Barbara!
Now take a look at our highlights from the Barbara Hulanicki for George collection.
Picture: Barbara Hulanicki and Fiona Raisbeck.
