Movers and shakers at London Fashion Week

We look at the top designers at London Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2007-8

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Christopher Kane

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,christopher kane Christopher Kane


 

 

Still only 24, Christopher Kane was single-handedly responsible for summer’s killer body-con trend. This Scottish protégé of Donatella Versace continues to fly the flag for figure-enhancing fashion – autumn’s big look focused on fit-and-flare silhouettes, epitomised by the skating skirt. His must-wear looks for spring/summer 2008 included slashed stone-washed denim, snakeskin, ruffles and ra-ra skirts

Gareth Pugh

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,gareth pugh Gareth Pugh

 

If London has an enfant terrible, it has to be Gareth Pugh. Not one to groove to the same tune as everyone else, the punkadelic designer sets his own trends (inflatable jackets, anyone?) and cares not one whit if anyone follows. Wearable or not, this collection was a theatrical vision to behold (and his show remained among the most subscribed to) and with fans such as Kylie Minogue, the future looks bright for this prince of darkness.

Marios Schwab

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,marios schwab Marios Schwab

 

 

One of the newest champions of grown-up glamour, Marios Schwab was awarded Best New Designer at last year’s British Fashion Awards. Not just an \'80s revivalist, he has moved on from body-cling and his cocktail of quilted coats, sharp tailoring and breezy dresses last season, to produce a beautiful Spring/Summer collection of techno tie-dye prints, neoprene harnesses and papoose-black jackets.

 

Osman Yousefzada

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,osman yousefzada Osman Yousefzada

 

 

Osman Yousefzada creates female-friendly clothes that bridge the gap between innovative and commercial, and is a firm favourite among fashion insiders. Despite a relatively short time in the business, the ex-City boy has nailed a trademark sexy-but-sophisticated silhouette that critics, buyers and customers unanimously adore

 

Todd Lynn

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,todd lynn Todd Lynn

 

 

Darling of the music-industry elite, Todd Lynn has created stage costumes for the likes of The Stones, PJ Harvey and U2. So it’s no surprise that this season\'s collection was a harmonious mash-up of impeccable tailoring, cool deconstruction and a whole lot of attitude.

 

PPQ

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,ppq PPQ

 

 

From drainpipes to cocktail dresses, PPQ has spearheaded many a mainstream trend without betraying its impeccably cool credentials. Favourite of in-the-know customers such as Kirsten Dunst and Sofia Coppola, this cult label is the epitome of London’s youthquaker look, a point proved when Peaches Geldof opened this season\'s show. After a heavy investment from retail giants Baugur, PPQ are destined for even bigger things

 

Giles

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,giles Giles

 

 

Giles Deacon\'s show had all the ingredients of a spectacular event. Show-stopping glamour? Witness his red-carpet-worthy gowns. Jaw-dropping innovation? Who else could get away with a printed motif of a dying Bambi? Bold-face models? You bet - Carmen Klass and Agyness Deyn to name but two. And front-row action? With Linda Evangilista and Thandie Newton as admires he did not disappoint. Don\'t forget to check out his Giles Gold collection for New Look, currently in stores

 

House of Holland

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,house of holland House of Holland

 

 

House of Holland was a hot ticket simply because we were all curious to see where Henry Holland would take us next. The hero of Hoxton has had phenomenal success based on his zeitgeist-defining slogan tees, but now it was time for a new direction. Insipred in part by Guns \'n\' Roses frontman Axel Rose, the show was full of fun and attitude and an expected appearance from his muse and best buddy, Agyness Deyn

 

Nathan Jenden

nathan,jenden Nathan Jenden

 

 

Nathan Jenden’s last two shows were a feast of puff-skirted silhouettes and little (and not so little) black dresses combined with \'50s-meets-\'80s styling (brothel creepers and quiffy coiffures). The former right-hand man to Diane von Furstenberg knows how to rock a trend, and this season\'s show, a hot ticket for London’s key press and buyers, furthered his trademark silhouettes and looks set to further his success

 

Luella

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,luella Luella

 

 

She’s back! For one night only, Cornish designer Luella \'did-a-Marc\' and brought her show to London to tie in with the opening of her new shop on Mayfair\'s Brook Street. We expected reworked classics with a youthful twist, and a healthy dose of cool-but-quirky styling, and the Batman motif running throughout the show guaranteed this in abundance.

To see who else we rated as London fashion week\'s main movers and shakers carry on clicking through...

Asprey

Autumn Winter 2007-08,asprey Asprey

 

 

Having spent 23 years at Paul Smith, Asprey’s new creative director Hakan Rosenius knows a thing or two about branding and marketing. All eyes were on this collection to see if he had what it took to rebrand Asprey for the next generation of luxe shoppers, the verdict is in; he does

 

Jonathan Saunders

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,jonathan saunders Jonathan Saunders

 

 

Fluid shapes, clean lines and painterly screenprints are the hallmarks of textile whizz Jonathan Saunders. With his labour-intensive pieces (each design uses up to 20 screenprints), playful colours and refined silhouettes, could he be a  Zandra Rhodes in the making? This collection was even more of an event as the rumours are flying around that next season Saunders may be showing in New York

 

Eley Kishimoto

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,eley kishimoto Eley Kishimoto

 

 

 

Never ones to follow mainstream trends, Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto have carved a niche for their unique graphic-print style. Straddling the gap between girly and grown up, the Eley Kishimoto look always remains on-trend, while pushing an aesthetic all its own


 

Matthew Williamson

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,Matthew Williamson Matthew Williamson

 

 

Another big-name homecoming, Matthew Williamson celebrated his tenth year in fashion in style with a show at London Fashion Week complete with an opening impromptu performance from Prince. Who knew way back when that those little sequinned Accessorize bags would lead to something as big as this (as well as a gig designing for Pucci)? Let’s not forget his A-list buddies, Sienna, Jade and Erin

Danielle Scutt

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,danielle scutt Danielle Scutt

 

 

Fun and fearless, Danielle Scutt’s last London Fashion Week show (as part of the Fashion East group showing) was a riot of disco dresses, out-there tailoring and \'80s power-dressing. This season’s solo show was sponsored by Topshop, and sealed her name as one to remember

 

Adidas by Stella McCartney

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,Adidas by Stella McCartney Adidas by Stella McCartney

 

The Stella McCartney for Adidas collection closed London Fashion Week. Surely one of the hardest-working women in fashion, Stella has her own line, her newly launched skincare and lingerie lines, a bag collection in the pipeline for LeSportsac, as well as the phenomenally successful sports range for Adidas.

 

Ashish

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,ashish Ashish

 

 

One of the most exciting and upbeat shows on the schedule, Ashish’s collection brimmed with originality. The sequin king of street glitz has recently toned down his Bollywood-bright aesthetic, resulting in a more elegant, commercial look

 

Spijkers en Spijkers

Autumn Winter 2007-08,spijkers en spikjers Spijkers en Spijkers

 


Dutch duo Spijkers en Spijkers specialise in a flattering, bodyskimming silhouette that’s slightly slouchy without being sack-like. With a feminine and playful approach, they’ve grasped the concept of wearability without losing their creative edge

 

Clare Tough

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,clare tough Clare Tough

 

 

One of the forerunners of the body-con look, Clare Tough is a knitwear designer whose pieces are a million miles away from cosy woolly jumpers. Recent shows have wowed the crowd her with skimpy \'80s-style micro dresses, a trend she continued this season, complete with intricate sky-line detailing. A million miles from the traditional Argyll knit

 

Sinha-Stanic

Autumn Winter 2007-08,Spring Summer 2008,sinha stanic Sinha-Stanic

 
Sinha-Stanic’s short \'n\' tight minimalist vision, reminiscent of early \'90s New York clubwear, suggests they may be ready to take over from where Preen left off. This season sees them launching a lower-priced range of jersey dresses called ‘Sinha-Stanic Stretch’ which should see their name becoming more widely known, a task made easier with newly converted fans such as Amy Winehouse

 
Back to the Movers and Shakers to watch for in 2008 special

 

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