Designer Stefano Pilati has proved he is a visionary designer over the last few years at YSL. He has brought back the tulip skirt, the wide belt cinched at the waist, and pleat-front trousers; a silhouette which is now so ingrained in fashion narrative it is easy to forget how unusual it seemed when he first joined the house in 2004. His autumn / winter collection continued in this theme. There was the (now familiar) tapered shape, with broad-shouldered blazers, tapered trousers and pencil skirts decorated with asymmetric gold zips, crafted in heavy grey and black wool or tweed, and interrupted by flashes of cornflower blue, a colour used for the new YSL Muse Two bag (as modelled by Kate Moss in the current YSL campaign shot my Ines Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin).  -Danielle Radojcin