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Gabrielle ‘Coco' Chanel started her eponymous label in 1909 and opened her first boutique stocking fancy hats soon after on the ground floor of her lover's Parisian apartment. It wasn't long before she expanded her range to include a collection of women's sportswear in 1913 and again further to include flannel blazers, straight linen skirts, sailor tops, long jersey sweaters and skirt suits during the First World War. As her clothes became more and more desirable, in 1921 she launched her debut signature fragrance Chanel No 5 (named after her lucky number), which was the first ever fragrance to have a fashion designer's name attached to it. The Chanel label went from strength to strength to become the lucrative global empire it is today. Coco continued as head designer for the brand until her death in 1971 and in 1978 the label (now under the control of Alain Wertheimer), launched its first prêt-à-porter range. In 1983 Wertheimer persuaded current creative director Karl Lagerfeld to take the reins and a new era of Chanel began.

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