Sweet versus sexy

Which fashion camp are you in for the coming season?

  BalengciagaAre you a girl or a woman?
Hands up who's on the waiting list for Balengciaga's robo-chic leggings? Not quite your style? How about Chanel's futuristic wedges? Or Marios Schwab's body-con sheath? If those don't do it for you there's an altogether girlier silhouette on the menu – think demure mini dresses in cute prints and gamine Edie Sedgwick tunic shifts. Fashion for spring it seems is split cleanly in two camps. On one hand you have the sexy vamp, on the other the softer, sweeter option.

Everything changes
The great thing about fashion is it keeps us on our toes. Just when we've got comfortable in our Roland Mouret Galaxy dress – whoosh, it's all about a looser sack shape. And just when we thought it was safe to bulk buy those (no more magic knickers –yay!), it's all flipped again. So why the supersexy silhouette versus sweet and chic now? 'Supersexy' is the natural conclusion to the eighties nostalgia that's been building up for the past two years. Having discovered our waists we're happy to focus on boobs and legs too, and we're all toned up thanks to the noughties obsession with diet and plastic surgery. On the other hand, all hell's broken loose on the planet with bloody conflict and natural disasters uppermost in our minds. Fashion's reaction in times of strife is to focus on the pretty and uncomplicated. Don't fight, buy a silk dress!

Where to find it
While last season was all trapeze dresses and slouchy trousers, this is the season to look forward to white lace tunics and silky jumpsuits at Biba and short shift dresses in vibrant graphics and fabulous flirty florals at Diane Von Furstenberg, while Chloe continues its girlish aesthetic with shorts, mini dresses and pinafores. In the futuristic vamp camp, Balenciaga is a riot of sharp shoulders, shiny sheaths and tight trousers set off with more metallics than Robert Dyas. Preen is all about the cling of a thigh-grazing sheath as is Christopher Kane but in a palette of Stabilo highlighter neons.

  Chloé Go your own way
Of course, some designers straddle both trends. Chanel showed predominantly monochrome mini dresses but tempered with futuristic plastic and metallic wedges. Gucci's strong sex appeal is evident as much in its severe ponytails, black eyeliner and saucer sunglasses as its sweet print frocks, while Versace combines innocent mini dresses with 80s sheaths and curve-conscious swimsuits. The bottom line is fashion is about democracy this season. If you're waiflike and girlish like Sofia Coppola you'll love the whimsy of Matthew Williamson and Diane Von Furstenberg. Voluptuous and sexy like Beyonce? The strong sharp look is yours to keep.