Tricks of the trade – perfectly matte

I often get asked whether it is right or wrong to be matte. It is a finish that comes and goes with fashion, and for the last couple of years we have been flaunting slightly shiny skin and, in some cases, going for full-on glossy. Aside from fashion, you also need to decide if matte is the right look for you. If your skin is prone to being oily, you will probably like the matteness. If you have drier skin a matte finish will start off looking good, but by the end of the day you run the risk of looking as though you've trowelled plaster of Paris over your face.

Although matte skin looks great in photos, real skin is not totally matte, has a natural radiance and usually develops a slight shine during the day. The only way to get a completely matte look is to try to use mattifying products, as well as touch up regularly throughout the day. So if you are looking for a matte finish, how can you best achieve it without looking like you stuck your face in a flour bag? Powder puffs at the ready and let's cut that shine to the quick.

Matte products
One way to get a matte finish is to start your make-up application with a matte make-up primer. These are normally applied after a moisturiser, and underneath your foundation. However, oilier skin may find that using the primer alone gives a better finish. I particularly like Becca's Mattifying Primer, which has a fantastic texture. You can choose whether to use it all over the face or in problem areas like the T-zone. This is one product that should be used without a moisturiser when possible, but if you require the additional moisture, you can indeed apply it when and where you need it. Boots No7 Matte Under Make-up Base is another favourite, is great alone or over a moisturiser and is very reasonably priced. Shiseido and Laura Mercier also do great primers. Both have very different textures, so you may like one more than the next simply because you like the way it feels when you apply it to the skin, so it's worth testing them both. And, finally, a product from men that a great many women end up nicking! King of Shaves XCD range has a product called Perfector that stops shine whether you wear a foundation or not, plus it has the ability to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. XCD is only available from Boots and at Shave.com.

If you want to physically slow down the production of oil, you may want to invest in a moisturiser that will kill two birds with one stone. These will usually cost a little bit more than a regular moisturiser, but again, if this is the finish you are after, it will be worth the extra expense. Plus, think of how much less powder you will need to pack onto your face! Prada Beauty Hydrating Gel Cream Matte is a great example of a moisturiser that will give you a leg-up on the sort of look you want. Both moisturising and mattifying, it will ensure you start the day with skin that is fresh and comfortable, without the usual shine from moisturiser first thing in the morning. Jose Eisenberg (available at selected Boots) has a matte moisturiser in both its men's and women's ranges. This is another excellent product, and the smell is very nice, too. Some other products include Natura Bissé Stabilizing Cream Gel, Lauder Clear Difference, Sisley Tropical Resin Lotion or Cream, and Lancôme's Pur Control moisturisers.

You could also try some of the T-zone controlling products like Clinique Anti-Blemish Solution, Origins Zero Oil and Shiseido's Pureness and The Skincare T-zone products. These are all applied over moisturiser, but can be used during the day over your make-up to touch up without adding yet another layer of powder. Please keep in mind that you do not want to totally stop the oil from being produced, you simply want to slow it down. Oil is the natural protective factor that skin produces and it really does help hold back the ravages of time. Oily skin almost always looks younger than dry skin.

Matte make-up
Creating a matte finish is a step-by-step process. It is not simply a matter of bashing as much powder on your face as you possibly can. Sure, that will make you look matte, but it will also make your face uncomfortable and heavy-feeling, not to mention the fact that you will look like you are about to have your final viewing in the morgue… Using a moist-finish foundation is not a good idea, as you will need to add more powder than you should. Look for foundations that will give you a semi-matte to matte finish. Powder can also make a huge difference. Some powders will make your skin more luminous than matte, so if you are using one of these, you will never get a matte finish, no matter how much powder you get to stick to your visage.

Powder and foundation for a matte finish
Apply powder for a long-lasting finishApply whatever combination of moisturiser, T-zone controllers, and matte make-up primers you want. If you want to simply apply make-up over your regular moisturiser, you can do that as well. Apply your foundation. If it is a liquid or cream, apply as you usually would. Start with a smaller amount and build in the areas that you feel you require the most coverage. Follow with concealer on any blemishes or under the eye area. If you want to go really matte, apply a concealer first if and where you need it, and then follow with a powder foundation. That way you are getting the matte finish right from the very start. Some of these are applied with a dry sponge, such as Shiseido Powder Foundation, Chantecaille Compact Make-up Powder Foundation, Max Factor Cream Puff and Dior Diorskin Compact. But there are others that can be applied either wet or dry, depending on how much coverage you need. Rubinstein Two-Way Powder Cake Make-up, Shu Uemura Powder Foundation and Kanebo Powder Finish Foundation are all in this group. The beauty of these is that you can use it wet first to give the coverage, and then you can use it dry to get really matte. You can also use them to touch up both shine and cover during the day. If you only want a light coverage, you can apply the powder foundations with a large brush and cut down the weight of the product. Some product ranges will offer you a liquid and powder foundation in identically matched shades, which is fantastic for getting totally matte, as well as touching up shine throughout the day. These include Dior, Shiseido, Chanel and Kanebo. If you want a light coverage with a matte finish, use a matched liquid and follow it with a brush of the powder version to cut the shine. Becca is a great range if you want a matte finish that will last. The shade range is amazing and caters for virtually any skin tone or ethnic background. I will give you a word of warning though: when you have applied the powder with the puff, you will look quite heavily made-up. Do not worry. It takes about half an hour for the natural oils to set the make-up and leave you looking flawless and natural. If you need it, now's the time to add powder. The degree of matteness you get will depend on the method you use to apply the powder, as well as the powder that you have chosen. There is not really a better or worse between puffs and brushes and cotton wool. If you are prone to breakouts, using the same powder puff every day will be a breeding ground for germs and it is likely to cause you problems down the line. If you are going to go for a puff, make sure you have several and are able to throw them through the washing machine for easy maintenance. If you won't do that, opt for pads of cotton wool so you can throw them away after you have used them each day.

Puffs and/or cotton wool will apply the most product and, therefore, give you the most matte finish. Choose a colour that verges on light rather than dark, so you can be liberal with the application. If you choose a powder that is darker than your skin, when it grabs onto any additional moisture, it will darken on the skin. That may be fine for your first application of the day, but you will be completely stuffed when it comes to touching up shine later on. Once you have applied the powder, blend it with a large brush. When you use a puff or cotton pad, press the powder into the foundation. I usually use a puff with a band across the back, which I slip my middle three fingers in. This allows me to 'roll' or pat the powder onto the face so as not to disturb the finish of the foundation. If you wipe the powder on, you will be removing foundation and concealer with every swipe. Press, pat or roll! If you are going to use a brush, proceed with caution. To get a truly matte finish you are going to have to use quite a lot of powder with a brush. That means mess. Do not try this once you are dressed or you will end up looking as though you work in a bakery! Transfer some powder into the lid of the container. Dip the brush in and then work the powder into the brush in the palm of your hand. This removes the excess and, again, you can come back and get the rest of it later. Start in the areas where you need to be matte the most. That is normally the centre of the face rather than, say, the chin or cheek areas. Don't over-brush. This will again disturb the foundation and concealer. Lightly brush or even dab the brush over the face. Once the initial finish has been achieved, you can brush more liberally. Follow with the rest of your make-up application!

Liked that? Read these...

Post Your Comment

You can find us here...
Member benefits
  • Free weekly newsletter
  • Talk to forum members
  • Win 100s of freebies
SIGN UP TODAY
Competitions & Offers

  • Win a  £5,000 'Bejeweled' Diamond & Sapphire Ring read more>>


  • New Year, New Drinking Habits – the Healthy Drink Celebrities Are Going Nuts For! read more>>


  • Win a VIP weekend to London to see SINGIN’ IN THE RAIN! read more>>


  • Win £500 of Superdrug vouchers with Surveys.co.uk read more>>


  • WIN an amazing Lucky Voice VIP party worth £500! read more>>


  • Celebrate Valentine’s Day with the smash hit musical Wicked read more>>

Promotions