We are heading for dangerous ground. This is the point where make-up can go from stunning to stupendously hideous in the stroke of a brush. It is easier to make a mess of shaping than any other part of make-up application, because if it's not even you will look wonky. Not just wonky, like half of your face has fallen asleep. Not a pretty sight. No, indeed.

So if you are cosmetically challenged, you might want to give this entire thing a miss, but if you are game, grab your toolkit and let's lighten up.

Where to do it
The best way to find out whether you should go for contours, highlights, both - or give them a miss entirely -is to stand under a bright light - directly overhead, if possible. There should be some sort of shine on your face when you do this: ie, moisturiser, tinted moisturiser or foundation. When looking in the mirror, study how the light falls on your face.

If there is light shining over your cheekbones, for instance, this is an obvious place to apply highlighter. If there is a shadow under the cheekbones, this is where the contour product would go. Easy huh? You may find that you get neither if your face is rounder, and this is where you will have to use your judgement. Careful application can give you the illusion of these missing contours, but you don't have the easy guide to apply by. Sorry. Try sucking your cheeks in like a fish and look again. Sounds ridiculous, but it works.

Contours
I usually don't recommend this unless you are very confident with make-up because you can end up looking like you need a good wash!

If you are going to go ahead, you'll need a darker powder than the colour of your skin. Pressed is far easier, and the number of shades you darken by should be in proportion to the skill of application. The darker it is compared to your own skin, the easier it is to make a mess!

I find that a dark pressed powder works much more easily than a bronzer or even a darker version of your chosen blusher, though that can work as long as you are only doing cheekbones. Here's how to add the contours...
Apply foundation and powder as usual If you don't wear powder, you are going to need to do this with a foundation (sticks work really well for this) that is slightly darker than your skin instead Blend either the liquid or powder in the areas that you had shadow when you stood under the light If you are using it to slim the face, apply to the entire outer perimeter of the cheek. Usually this is only done from the sides to make the face look less wide. However, you could also minimise broad or high foreheads, jawlines and noses this way too. Simply shade in the areas that you want to be less prominent If you go too far, don't panic; apply more of the neutral foundation or powder over the top before starting to add colour to dampen it down Always do this sort of shaping prior to colour application. That way if you make a pig's ear of it, you won't have spoiled all your hard work and you can easily start over.