Beauty Q & A with John Gustafson

Dear John,
Reading your advice has really turned my skin around, plus it's always so reassuring that other people have the same kind of problems! I was wondering though, if your favourite brush for mineral foundation is still the Guerlain? I have been using Laura Mercier's mineral foundation for some time, but like others, hated the scratchy, shedding brush. For a while I used the Body Shop's mineral foundation brush, but I was wondering if I can get a better application with something else. For example, how does natural/synthetic fibre affect this? The industry seems torn between natural (or imitation) kabukis and the black-and-white dual fibre like the Guerlain one. I know that some people also use a normal liquid foundation brush. It's confusing to know what to try/buy! Overall, I don't need a huge amount of coverage on most of my face, but acne scarring, pigmentation and some active acne on my chin and jaw take some covering! In terms of price, I'm willing to make an investment, but I am a student so I'm not exactly loaded! I was very disappointed with the quality of the Laura Mercier brush that I purchased with the foundation, since it was rather expensive and not what I expected from the brand, but I'd be happy to pay for a decent brush, that will last and give good results.

My other question is about dealing with the staying time of base. My fussy combination skin is still prone to drench me in oil throughout the day, and that particular foundation also seems to start to sit in lines which make me look at least ten years older than my 23 years! I set it with the mineral finishing powder and then either touch up with that, or use Clinique's blotting sheets, which work quite well, but don't solve the lining issue. I was thinking that a primer might make some difference to this? I've been using Clinique's t-zone shine control before, but to be honest I think it's quite drying, which isn't really what I need as my skin can be dehydrated as well as oily, and it's hardly going to help the magically-appearing fine lines! My skincare is Liz Earle, with the light moisturiser, which seems to suit me well, but doesn't in itself offer any extra staying power for make-up. I was thinking of something like that gorgeous Guerlain primer with the pink pearls, but unfortunately I can't really afford that one. Do you think something like that would keep things looking fresher and help with the matte-ness (and also be able to be used on bare skin)? If so then which do you like best out of the various other options? Laura Mercier does various much-written-about primers I know, but I'm not sure which would be most suitable for me, and you've also mentioned No7, but I have tried that one and I think I might be allergic to it because it went all horrid and flaky. If I can't solve this problem then I may have to switch foundations, much as I love the initial finish of this one.
Thanks again for your extremely helpful advice,
Marianne

Marianne,
Hello love! I agree on the Laura Mercier brush! Not only is it dry and brittle, when you wash it - black dye runs out all over the place. Nice. I still really do love the Guerlain, but Becca has recently brought out a near identical one that is about £9 cheaper...so I would go for that one. The brush is the same: shorter real hair bristles that will hold the mineral foundation in the brush during application, and longer synthetic bristles to blend it more softly and not pull away the coverage as you build it. They are by far my favourites. I couldn't use a traditional foundation brush with a mineral powder foundation. At all. Nor do I like the short stubby ones that normally come with them. Becca comes in three sizes and I use the one that is called "small". You shouldn't have to be setting the mineral powder foundation with another powder though. Overkill! The mineral should be plenty good enough on its own.

It is interesting what you say about the Boots Matte Primer as you are the second person I have heard this from recently. I am wondering if there has been a slight formula change as I have never encountered that comment before. I will check up on that. The Guerlain Meteorite Primer is a beautiful product, but it is costly. Maybe let someone do that for you for a birthday or special gift. Have you tried the Laura Mercier Matte Primer yourself? They should be able to give you a sample since you use the foundation with it. See if it makes a difference before spending the cash. I personally find it woks about 50% of the time. Becca Pore and Line Corrector and the Shiseido Men's Anti-Shine Refresher are the others that I carry for my own work and they are the ones I find actually make a difference in lasting time and mattifying. Sadly that is all I can recommend.

Mineral foundations are not for everyone. Sometimes you have to play the field a little bit to finally find the one that gives you the finish, colour, and staying time that you want. If you have to jump ship, maybe look at a few of the new pressed version that you can apply with a sponge OR a brush like the Guerlain Parure or the Chanel Vita Lumiere Éclat Compact Makeup. Or you could try a liquid mineral foundation such as Lauder Nutritious or Guerlain Parure Extreme.
Hope that all helps,
John

Dear John,
I have a technique problem! I've so many expensive pink satin finish and matte lipstick mistakes (they always look so good at the counter!), and I've heard that you can use them as cream blushers. Is this right? But I can't fathom how to do it when I only ever wear mineral powder. Before or after? Is the rule for makeup, powder with powder, and cream with creams? Because the finish of these lipsticks will be creamier, I don't know if it's possible to apply it before powder?

Also with pencil and liquid liner, is it best to use this before or after shadow? Does it work better with one (cream or powder) or make no difference? I simply don't know how to mix cream and powder!
My regards,
Bella

Bella,
I would rarely recommend using a lipstick as a blusher unless it is specifically made as a multi-purpose product. Lipsticks have a lot more emollients in them to hydrate the lips and can block the pores on your cheeks. It is just not what they are made for. In an emergency? Yeah - but not as an everyday occurrence. If you wear a mineral powder foundation you will have a nightmare getting a cream texture over the top, and if you try it under? It will get covered up with the coverage of the foundation itself. It is not you being inept or unskilled: you are trying to do something that even a professional would have a hard time with.

Your eye question I would have to answer differently depending on what you were using. I would use the liners after the shadows if the shadows were powdered. Mind you, if you want a really smoky lashline, blending some shadow over the liner will soften it and smudge it for you. A creamy shadow will have a hard time holding a liquid line so you would want to apply the line first with that combination. Again you may have a problem though when the creamy texture touches the line as it might smudge the liner. Catch-22. I think each combination will need a little trial. Not very useful, I know, but I would rather be honest. I often have to switch the logical order of products to accommodate the products themselves. That is the "artistry" of make-up!
Best,
John

Hi John,
I am in need of some of your amazing advice- I don't know how you know so much, but I know you probably have the answer to my prayers! I have tried a lot of moisturisers that are alright but I really want the one that is perfect for me now, if possible! I am 22 and have an oily T-zone and occasional spots. I would like a moisturiser that is good for combination skin but also has an SPF (because I am very pale) and protects against premature ageing because I'm getting a little crinkly on my forehead (overworked, underpaid). At the moment I am using Nick Lowe Super Charged SPF15 Day Cream because I was seduced by the 'age-fighting' promise, but I can't help worrying that it isn't helping the oily issue. But the moisturisers aimed at combo/oily skin don't seem to have an SPF... do you have a solution?
Thanks for any help or advice!
Kate

Kate,
I am not sure this will be exactly what you want to hear or exactly the opposite! In my opinion, at the tender age of 22, the SPF is already all the anti-ageing that you need. A sunscreen is by far and away the most effective anti-ageing ingredient there is. If you are doing too much more than that, your skin is going to get lazy and allow you to do all of the work for the rest of your life. ANY cream made for a normal/combination skin with and SPF of about a 15 or so is going to do the trick. The difficult bit will be to find one you like the texture, smell, and price of.

I agree that the one from Dr. Lowe is not really addressing your oil production, but products like Clinique Super Defence SPF25, Lancôme Bienfait Multi Vital Fluid SPF30, Dr. Lewinn's SPF30, Lauder Daywear SPF15 or SPF30 would. The other anti-ageing concession that these are all making is that they are packed pull of anti-oxidants to help protect the skin from external aggressors and daily life in general. If you are really concerned with the crinkles on your forehead, you could go a step further and try Lancôme Renergie Morpholift R.A.R.E. Normal Combination SPF15, Clarins Extra Firming Day Fluid SPF15, or Dior Hydra Life Fluid SPF15. Do I truly think you need that extra step? No. But if YOU do...that is all that matters. Just promise me you will not allow yourself to get out of control and start using products that you don't need until 8-10 years from now. Deal?
Cheerio Kate,
John