Hi John,
I am 52 years old. I have a combination skin. My problem is large pores and tiny red spider veins on my cheeks. I have used foundation but my large pores and spider veins show through. I have also tried a green concealer but that has no effect. Please suggest any make-up products that would hide these problems as I am fed-up of looking in the mirror and having them stare back at me.
Many Thanks
Linda

Linda,
There is a fairly new product by Clinique that I am so impressed with, and it should be the answer that you are looking for. The product is the Anti-Redness Solution Mineral Powder and I don't know of another product like it. The powder is quite a bright yellow and you use it on freshly moisturised skin BEFORE you use any sort of foundation. It doesn't sound like it could possibly work, but it is like a mini-miracle! I have gone to use it on clients as an anti-red product and then forgotten to apply the foundation because the effect is so brilliant. If you were to apply a pore filling product like Shiseido Men's Anti Shine Refresher, Clinique Pore Minimiser, or Becca Pore and Line Corrector: you would solve both issues. Mind you, a very light foundation or tinted moisturiser over the Clinique powder would have been my initial choice. Or any of the mineral powder foundations.  Sort of a multi-functional product for you. Coverage, matte finish, and the mineral bases are good at deflecting light away from imperfections like the open pores. And since becoming so popular they are widely available at any price range. Another product I have discovered fairly recently is the Bliss Spa Pore Refining Toner Pads. Love them! You use them in place of your regular toner after cleansing and they help to (as close as I have ever seen), close the appearance of open pores, mattify the skin, and smooth skin texture. The only concern I would have with them is whether or not they were counterproductive with the redness. That give you quite a shopping list, but I feel very confident you are "problem solved"!
Best,
John

Dear John,
I am 21 and usually don't wear any make-up at all so am a complete novice. However, recently I have ventured into the world of black eye liner pencils - but every liner I've tried is either not pigmented enough/too scratchy and goes on grey-ish or ends up smudging all around the eyes making me look like a panda. The latter is the main problem. I have slightly oily skin round the eyes which doesn't help. I've experimented a bit and decided I would like to only apply liner to the waterline of my upper-lid - is this normal? Is it a bad thing to do? It creates a clean defined look that I like but only stays put for about half an hour before smudging onto the bottom waterline and everywhere else. But maybe this is unavoidable? I'm inclined to try Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide liners next but would like to ask your opinion first. Also, once it comes time for removal, I have no idea how to then properly take off the eyeliner without poking myself in the eye and irritating it. I wear contacts so my eyes can get pretty dry and irritated anyway. What can I do? Is this a lost cause?
As always, your advice would be extremely appreciated!
Many thanks,
Rain

Rain,
Boy...do I love it when there is only one perfect answer to a question! LOL. The product you want is the Bobbi Brown Gel Liner. There is a reason it wins nearly every beauty awards Best Liner category every year for the past 5 years. You apply the creamy gel with whatever sort of brush you prefer to the exact inner upper waterline you want and it will not budge until you take it off. No transfer. You can use it as an outer line as well - either smudged or defined. A real task master. And it does not shift. My guess is that the panda thing is happening due to residual oils left from eye creams or removers. The eye area doesn't produce oil, which is why the eye area ages more quickly than any other part of a woman's face. To take it off, you need a non-oily waterproof remover that is good for lenses. I would highly recommend Talika Conditioning Eye Makeup Remover, Elizabeth's Daughter Eye Makeup Remover, or Clinique Naturally Gentle Eye Makeup Remover. You will need a little practice with the gel liner - it took me a while to get it right too - but now I can't live without them. And the colour range is excellent. Have fun and remember there is no such thing as a lost cause when I am around!
Regards,
John

Dear John,
Thank you so much for all your wonderful work. Once again I have come to this board to ask for your help. And my question this time is about retinol products.  Whenever I read about effective anti-ageing treatments/ products, retinol products keep being mentioned as most effective in the fight against wrinkles, age spots, general skin condition etc. I even read one article saying that if you are in your 40s (which is what I am); then retinol is a must for your skin care regime.  So if the product is so effective, how come so few cosmetic companies come up with products containing retinol? Or am I looking in the wrong direction?  I am suspicious about using No7's Protect & Perfect product and would like to go a bit more high tech than this.  Also P&P is designed to be used in the mornings, which does not make sense since dermatologists recommend using retinol based products at night.  Then I came across Retinol Intense by Chantecaille which turned out to be not intense at all! After a long interrogation of a beauty consultant, I was told that the retinol content of this product is really low and can't be effective and that it is just a very nice night lotion (for £70+!). So I hope you can resolve this mystery for me and suggest a good retinol based product I can use as part of my skincare and also explain the reason why every cosmetic company does not use it if it is considered to be that effective.  Your help once again will be very much appreciated.
Yours,
Tanya Brain

Tanya,
This is such an excellent question and I am surprised it has not been asked sooner. Everything you have said is completely correct and I will try to dissect it into small bite-sized answers than can be put together in the end. Retinol IS one of the few tried and tested - and medically proven - anti-ageing ingredients. The reason companies don't all flog products containing this miracle ingredient is that it is extremely delicate and is broken down by virtually any other ingredients that surround it. Boots No7 Protect & Perfect original was never tested as a finished product and so, while it makes the skin feel nice; it doesn't really hit the spot. The newer Intense P&P is better.
Pure Retinol is a regulated drug and the percentage that cosmetic companies are allowed to use without prescription is so low as to really only refine the surface of the skin. You use it at night because it usually causes a little bit of redness and irritation, and you absolutely must use a sunscreen the following day since you are melting away the protective barrier of the skin. That is why daytime use is frivolous. So down to brass tacks.
If you want to use a Retinol product that is effective - get yourself a prescription for the real McCoy. Start using it gradually once or twice a week in the evening. Leave it for a few moments and follow with your moisturiser. You can still expect a little redness and irritation. Perhaps even some flaking the next day. Eventually your skin should become accustomed to the action and you can step up use to 2-3 times a week. The retinol will also help to stimulate growth of new cells from underneath. If you do it this way, you can continue on with whatever moisturiser you want, and can tackle other issues like firming, elasticity, etc. I don't really see the point in pussy-footing around either. If you are going to use a Retinol - use one! But I cannot stress strongly enough that you MUST use a daily sunscreen from this day forth. The higher the better. A minimal SPF6 in a foundation will not cut the mustard. Clarins UV40 is perfect over moisturiser and has no white film, plus makeup glides easily on top. Without getting too technical, that should answer your question Tanya. I didn't want to get too complicated so as to raise as many questions as I answered! Let me know if you want/need anything else and thank you so much for letting me clarify this for everyone.
Cheers,
John

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