Beauty advice on chemical peels

Regular facials, a good skincare routine and a healthy diet can all work wonders for the skin. But if years of neglect and stress has speeded up the ageing process faster than you might have liked, it could take more than a good night cream to achieve the skin you really want. Chemical peels are becoming increasingly common among women wanting to turn back the clock and get dramatic results in a matter of days, but there is still a widespread fear of having several layers of skin removed in the name of vanity. Who can forget that Sex And The City scene when Samantha appears with a blazing red and blistered face after opting for a spur-of-a-moment peel? To put the record straight and get all of the facts on chemical peels, we spoke to expert Dr Samantha Gammell who regularly performs peels at the Hadleigh Clinic on Harley Street in London so you can decide whether a peel is really for you.

What can I expect to happen when going for a chemical peel?

"You will have a consultation first to assess your suitability and to determine which type of peel will have the best effects for you. This is a good opportunity to ask any questions, address concerns and discuss possible side effects. If you suffer from cold sores, oral anti-viral medication should be started two days prior to the treatment and continued for three days after the treatment.

"Depending on your skin type and condition, pre-treatment with Retin-A for two weeks may be advised by the doctor. Retin-A is a prescription only cream (derived from vitamin A). It is used to thin out the skin's surface layer to allow the chemical peel solution to penetrate more deeply and evenly. If your skin will not tolerate Retin-A, an AHA may be used instead. On the day of your procedure you should arrive at the clinic without make-up or perfume.

"Before the peel your skin will be cleansed thoroughly and degreased. The chemical peel solution will then be applied to the skin. With a glycolic peel, a warm, mild prickling sensation is experienced. With a TCA peel this sensation is much more intense, although the solution is left on the skin for only a few minutes before the skin is cooled with cold compresses."

Are there different types of chemical peels and if so what are they?

"At The Hadleigh Clinic, Dr Gammell offers two main types of chemical peels:

Light peels (glycolic peel) are most commonly performed using alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs are found in plants and foods such as citrus fruits, sugar cane and sour milk. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is the most commonly used AHA. Glycolic acid breaks the intracellular bonds, decreasing the ‘glue' that holds the dead skin cells on the skin surface. It stimulates the production of collagen and the growth of better quality skin. Superficial peels such as glycolic peels require a course of four to six treatments every two to three weeks to achieve the optimum results.

Medium peels are usually performed using trichloroacetic acid (TCA). They have the same benefits as light peels but also improve conditions such as sun-damaged skin, irregular pigmentation, pre-cancerous skin lesions and light wrinkles. Medium TCA peels can be used as a one-off treatment, however, depending on a patient's initial skin condition, some patients may wish to repeat the procedure after a few months to achieve even more dramatic results.

Each chemical peel treatment is customised for a patient's skin type and specific skin problem. The basic principle is the deeper the peel the better the results but the longer the recovery period. The depth of the peel is dependent on the concentration and type of acid used; the duration of contact and a person's skin type and sensitivity."

Do I have to stay at home after my chemical peel or can I return to work straight away?

"Your face may be red immediately after a peel. With a glycolic peel the temporary redness, flaking and dryness that you experience should not prevent you from working or engaging in your normal activities. With a TCA peel you will experience mild discomfort and swelling similar to mild sunburn for a few days. In about a week your new skin will be apparent and you should have healed sufficiently to return to your normal activities. You should avoid sun exposure for several weeks following all chemical peel treatments and use a good sun protection cream."

Will I be able to see an improvement in my skin's appearance immediately?

"With a glycolic peel, you will be able to see improvement within a couple of days, however a course of treatment is required in order to achieve optimal results. With medium peels such as TCA peels, you will begin to see the results about 7-10 days following the treatment and they will continue to improve up to four months."

What are the advantages to a peel?

"Chemical peels remove the top, damaged surface skin and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin."

Is there any type of skin that doesn't suit a chemical peel?

"Chemical peels are not advisable if you are pregnant or breast feeding or if you have been prescribed Roaccutane in the past six months. Regarding skin types, the darker the skin type (ie, Asian or Afro-Caribbean skin), the risk of having post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation is substantially increased."

Can a chemical peel go wrong?

"Chemical peels are normally safe procedures when performed by a qualified, experienced doctor. However, as with all medical treatments, some unpredictability and risks are possible such as infection, scarring, hyper and hypo pigmentation, however this is extremely infrequent."

Is there any after care and, if so, do I have to spend a fortune on specific products?

"After all chemical peel treatments you should avoid sun exposure for several weeks and use a good sun protection cream. A post peel healing cream is also required as your skin will be more sensitive to your usual products."

I have some old acne scarring, will a peel help to fade this?

"This depends on the depth of the acne scarring which would be assessed during the initial consultation. Deep acne scars require deeper chemical peels."

Can a peel help improve acne?

"It depends on the degree of acne, therefore the initial consultation is very important. Dr Gammell can assess each individual and their skin condition in order to determine their suitability for a chemical peel and the individual results that they can personally achieve."

Will a peel help me to look younger?

"Each case is completely individual and depends on what it is about each patient that makes them feel and look older. However a chemical peel will improve skin quality and help rejuvenate your skin. By removing the damaged outer layers of the skin, you will be left with younger, smoother, more evenly pigmented skin beneath and a glowing appearance."

Does a peel involve harmful chemicals?

"All chemical peels are based on some form of acid product. However they are generally safe in the right hands, and at the Hadleigh Clinic we only use products that have undergone vigorous clinical testing."

I have some hyper pigmentation, will a peel help this?

"This is dependent on what the cause of your pigmentation is. A peel may help with epidermal pigmentation to a degree but it won't help with dermal pigmentation."

Dr Samantha Gammell, the Hadleigh Clinic, www.hadleighclinic.com, 08456 44 77 11, 7 Harley Street, London and 102 High Road, Buckhurst Hill.

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