Beauty Q & A with John Gustafson

Our make-up, skincare and beauty guru solves all your beauty dilemmas

Dear John,

Help me...help me!
I really want to buy a decent eyelash curler. I don't mind the cost but I want one that gives the best results - you know long luscious curling lashes! I've read so many conflicting reviews about the 2 brands that I am considering (Shu and Shiseido) - can you help before I waste my money on a pair that maybe won't give good results? Is there a particular type of curler that suits certain shaped eyes?

Thanks,
BeeTee

BeeTee,

You actually hit it in one: it is to do with the shape of your eyelid more than which of these two work better. In my opinion, they are both pretty much the same - and I have both. I am more likely to use whichever one hits my hand first though! LOL. And truth be told, my preference is a heated lash curler. I like that with a heated curler there is no pulling at the lashes and you can use it as many times a day as you want. The mild heat melts the wax of the mascara to give and hold the curl. Traditional lash curlers bend the lashes between the metal bar and a rubber stop. But it is completely a preference thing. I know tons of women who swear they have never pulled any lashes out with a regular curler (...OK...). But back to your query: both are very good and have the stamp of approval from professional makeup artists. My suggestion would be to go into a store that has both, wearing no mascara. Go to each counter and ask to use their tester and make certain you use them exactly the same way - count to ten or something! See which is better suited to the shape of your eyelid and then make your mind up. If you don't see much of a difference...buy the cheaper of the two.

So there you go,
John

Hi John

I'm in my mid thirties with medium/fair skin that tans easily. I've spent far too much time unprotected in the sun and as a result I've got very large pores on my T-zone and fine lines under my eyes, as well as very oily skin. I'm really embarrassed about how oily my face gets during the day. I end up getting more and more caked in powder as I top up constantly. I've tried blotting paper but it really isn't good enough. Can you recommend a good moisturiser, foundation and powder that are especially good for very oily skin and open pores - without being too heavy in the summer?

Many thanks,
Jennifer

Jennifer,

The pore structure and how quickly you get shiny shouldn't have anything to do with past sun exposure. But that doesn't make it any more pleasant. You can attack the problem in several ways. First - skincare. You need a moisturiser that will help to slow oil production. One that is really efficient is Natura Bisse Stabilizing Gel Cream. Sisley Tropical Resin is another really good one. You don't want to stop oil since this will help keep the skin from getting as many lines (...the silver lining of an oily skin! LOL), but if you can control it, you won't need to re-apply powder as frequently. Next up would be a matte primer. I like the Boots, Laura Mercier, and the Becca. Becca has a new SPF30 Mineral Primer that is oil and chemical free...and that would solve another issue. Shiseido has a little matte product in their men's range called Anti-Shine Refresher that can be used both under and over makeup to mattify without another layer of powder in the day, Press it over makeup to prevent smearing your foundation all over. Foundation? Let me see. I would go for a product like Clinique Superfit or Pore Minimiser, or Lauder Doublewear Light. The Lancôme Teint Idole Oil-Free is really lasting and light as well. All four will give decent light cover, protection from shine, and a longer-than-average staying time. Powder could be the matching Lauder Doublewear or Clinique Stay Matte, but I really like the Laura Mercier Invisible. I find that one can be applied more liberally and more often without looking like an orange peel. I know that is a lot of information to digest and quite a few destinations to visit, but I also know what a pain oily skin is. Just keep telling yourself that you will look years younger than all of your dry-skinned girlfriends a few years down the line!

Best,
John

Hi John,

I would say that my skin has always been quite good (a pimple or two during certain times of the month but nothing that lasts) until I hit 25! Suddenly I'm plagued with spots that won't go away - especially on my oily forehead and sensitive but non-oily cheeks. Some even leave their mark by scarring. I've tried quite a few products and the latest in my quest has been £200 worth of products from the Organic Pharmacy. Whilst I do like products from the Organic Pharmacy, it's still not helping me get rid of my reoccurring spots. Aside from booking an appointment with a dermatologist, what would you recommend? Thank you in advance.

Regards,
Justine

Justine,

Well, I agree that what you are using is not going to have much effect. Nice products (really), but not up to this particular challenge in my experience. Late onset adult acne is a growing problem that I see nearly every day. One of the tricks is to keep the skin thoroughly clean without drying it out. A couple of ranges that I recommend to clients are Karin Herzog, Natura Bisse Oxygen, and Dr. Sebagh Acne Cream. All are more of a dermaceutical product and all of the moisturisers are around £50. Pair them with a good cleanser from within those lines or one that you have had good results from in the past. Whichever way you do it, it will be less expensive than what you are using now. And should be more effective too. However, please note Justine that sometimes late onset adult acne can be a sign of something such as hormonal imbalance. A visit to your GP or the dermatologist could uncover a silly problem that is easy to take care of and solve the problem to boot. You might also find that, if the problem persists, a short course of something like Roe Accutane could rid you of the spots forever. It is a last resort, but one worth investigating. Good luck and if you should need any further advice, please don't hesitate to write again.

Regards,
John

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