Beauty Q & A with John Gustafson

Our make-up, skincare and beauty guru solves all your beauty dilemmas

Hello John,

First, thanks for a great column - I relish your advice! Second, I love the pretty coral that is cropping up everywhere - on rails, on lips and nails. Can you recommend a couple brands that do a good, true coral lipstick? I saw someone wearing a matt coral, which looked fab. Though, never one to do a matt lippie myself - but surprised how fresh it looked. How do you suggest I wear the colour - what colour eye shadow should accompany it? Also, do you think coral would look better on a tanned complexion (out of a bottle of course) or could I use it on my pale, winter canvas with a bit of bronzing powder?

Many thanks,
Mia

Mia,

How could I resist answering your question? LOL. I am loving the corals as well - miles away from the old-fashioned old lady coral I remember from when I started out a million and a half years ago! Companies with what I would consider true corals would be Lauder, Clinique, Chanel, Shu Uemura, Bobbi Brown, Rouge Basier, Lancôme, and Chantecaille (I find a few brands like YSL and Dior, though the corals look stunning, have a blue stain underneath). I hesitate to name actual shades because whether they are a true coral on YOU depends a lot on your natural lip shade. And there lies the problem. So you will have to play around a little bit. But the ones I mentioned have a good range of tones that revolve around the basic central shade. Bobbi does the best matte coral stain though - so try it...really fun. As far as shadows to compliment it, I like it with neutrals tans or greys, but I LOVE it with a splash of blue or green. The contrast is so fresh and new. Depending on your age Mia, you could always do a neutral eye and then add an accent of blue/green so you don't feel like mutton! Check out the Colour Splash clip I did for Handbag TV for step-by-step instructions. And to tan or not to tan? Hmmm... I actually like the look on pale skin myself. The coral just looks so clean and pretty against lighter skin. But of course you can always use it on a self-tan or bronzed skin for a more natural blend of colour. But why not set the trend with your mates for having the pale and interesting look this season? You will be much more prepared for the autumn looks that way and will stand out in the sea of sunburned, sun damaged, and radioactive self-tanned faces!

Tara,
John

 Dear John

Am getting married in June and have tiny thread veins on my nose and cheeks (my boyfriend says you can't see them but I am conscious of them) I had a couple sessions of IPL, which seems to have helped initially, but am convinced they are still appearing. I am sure I read somewhere on your site re a light reflecting cream that you would recommend that goes under make up as a primer? Do you recall? Any tips would be great - I don't like to wear much make up - and don' t plan to on wedding day have sensitive skin and hate that caked on effect that many foundations, etc give.

Thanks John
Nicky

Hi Nicky,

No time to lose here! I think the best I have found, particularly for women that don't like a heavy foundation, is the Shu Uemura Base Control. It is a very fine green primer that uses lighting technology to change the way we perceive the colour red. So instead of looking like you have cement on your face, you simply look more even. It really is remarkable. Many find they don't even need to cover it up as long as they are careful with the amount they apply. One that has an effect without any colour at all is LaPrairie Rose Illusion Line Filler, or you could look at Chantecaille Real Skin as a foundation. I wish you all the best on the big day, and listen, just this once, to your future husband...they most likely are NOT as visible as you think!

Congratulations,
John


Hi John

I enjoy reading your questions and answers. I love make up and skin care and was just wondering is there much difference in Department Store Brands etc Lancôme, Estee Lauder or cheaper brands like L'Oreal, Olay and Nivea. Then there are also spa brands Guinot, Babor etc. I am 52 with dry fair skin. I would like to know which brands I should go for, do the more expensive brands have better ingredients than the cheaper ones. I am always looking for something better than I am using at the moment. I would like to find something I can use and stick to that gives results.

Thanks,
Jenny

Jenny,

This is a bit of a "hotbed" here! One of the main differences is the grade of the ingredients and the delivery systems used to get them into the skin. For example: Lancôme is part of the L'Oreal group. If L'Oreal research is doing general work and discovers a major new piece of technology: that will usually go into the premium brands first. Shortly thereafter, it will trickle into their mass-market brands. But the grade, percentage, and the way it gets to where it needs to be has got to reflect the far lower price. So they can be similar - but not the same. You do get what you pay for. But that is not to say that the lesser-priced brands are not effective: they are. Some people can justify spending hundreds of pounds on a single skincare item and others simply cannot. When I am seeing clients, I tend to mix. If you have no problems with your cleansing and toning I would not put the bulk of my skincare spend there. I would put it on the one or two things that concern me and buy the best I can afford and justify. But if cleansing causes problems like dryness and/or irritation: you spend more on the cleanser. Likewise, if you have a hard time motivating yourself to get your makeup off at night: spending slightly more on a more "sensory pleasurable" cleanser may prompt you to get the job done. I myself - when not testing products - am likely to be found using dermaceutical or cosmeceutical products. The reason is that I AM essentially lazy. I admit it. I want minimum products and maximum results. And I want those results to be backed up with a clinical trial that can prove (as well as can be expected) that I can expect to see XY and Z results at the end of whatever time the trial extended to. I am a bit of a sceptic. I know how things get worded to lead you to believe things that are not untrue - but things that I am assuming. To wrap this tome up: really evaluate your skin. What are your concerns, preferences, and budget? Then find products that work to do what you want/need them to do in the way YOU want to do them. Some may be more or less costly, but if you are using them...that is most of the battle. Change or upgrade products only as you feel they need to be changed. Don't get caught up in all of the hype behind a product until you have looked into it. What is good for some may not be good for you.

Thanks for the excellent question,
John