Beauty Q & A with John Gustafson

Our make-up, skincare and beauty guru solves all your beauty dilemmas

Hi John

Please would you be able to give me some guidance about applying eyeliner? Although I have worn a sweeping black line (very effectively) on the eye lid for many years I am finding recently that my usual Rimmel eye liner is flaking and coming off during the day. I don't believe I am doing anything different but hope you would be able to help?

With thanks,
Jocelyn

Hi Jocelyn,

This may be a much easier explanation than you were expecting, but here goes. Over the past few years, the textures of eyeshadows and liners have been improving leaps and bounds. But with that improvement there is sometimes the pitfall of textures clashing. For example: if you have ever tried to use a foundation over a silicone primer or a moisturiser with silicones for smoothing and light diffusion, you will have found they often "roll off" of one another. This may be similar to what has happened with your liner. I love the Rimmel liner myself and have indeed found that it flakes off of some brands and textures of shadow and not off of others. And you can never tell until it is too late...as with so many other things. It may be worth trying a few other liners (Guerlain is beautiful, Lancôme Liner Design is a fab pen liner, and Bobbi Brown Gels work a treat) or adjusting the shadows underneath until you find one that doesn't flake your existing liner off. On a final note, if you have recently changed your eye makeup remover (which could be leaving a residue), or your eyecream (using too much or too close to the eye), or putting a primer or foundation on the lids: these could all contribute to the problem. All the best to you and I hope this helps resolve your query.

Best,
John


Dear John,

I'm 20 and have suffered with acne for around 5 years, I still have mild acne although now it is not too bad, I have scars and spots I need to conceal but find that I need to use very thick/or many layers of foundation to cover them, which leaves me looking so dull and a lot older. I try to ad blusher but it looks too dramatic against the thick foundation. Any advice to stop my looking older than my years??

Thank you.
Laura

Laura,

What you need is to cover only what needs covering. Apply a foundation that is a light a weight as you can get away with for the majority of your face. Then, using a brush, add concealer that exactly matches the foundation to the scarred areas. This way you end up looking totally even and completely natural. Many companies even specifically match the products to make the choice easier: Laura Mercier, Bobbi Brown, Becca, Chantecaille, etc. By using the exact same names, you are ensured flawless joins that allow you complete control. It will take you a little practice and seem very time consuming in the beginning but I promise that within a week or so, you will be applying it all like an expert!

You are most welcome,
John


The problem with many green correctors though is that they make you look like cement!Dear John,

Please could you explain the pros and cons of green versus yellow colour correctors for broken veins, flushing and red patches? Should what you use depend on whether your basic skin tone is pink or yellow toned or whether you want to wear foundation over it or not or is there some other criteria for choosing? I have always used green quite successfully but was wondering about Benefit 'You're Bluffing' which is yellow. My underlying skin tone is pink and yellow generally does not suit me in clothing terms - but I don't know if this is relevant re colour correction!

Thank you,
Bridget

Bridget,

What an excellent question! The truth of the matter is that if you use pure colour theory, green is the compliment to the colour red and therefore helps to cancel it out. The problem with many green correctors though is that they make you look like cement! Then you need a really heavy foundation to cover up the sick looking green - so you may as well have just used the heavy foundation in the first place. Yellow correctors are somewhat kinder and are easier and more natural to cover. Personally, I would feel more inclined to use a green corrector on a warmer golden skin and a yellow one over an English rose complexion. That is purely because the contrast with the foundation wouldn't be as great. But if you find a product that really works for you...use it. My favourite green one is the Shu Uemura Base Control. It uses lighting technology to optically correct the way you perceive the red and is so fine that often you can get away without covering up the corrector at all - provided the skin is in good nick otherwise. I am fond of the Shiseido Colour Control Stick too as it allows you to use it both under and over makeup as an "insurance policy" and to touch up when you are out in the day. If you use this, touch it on with your fingertip rather than scribbling it over your skin. As a yellow corrector, the new Estee Lauder is a firm favourite. Again, it borrows from professional and lighting technology to change the way we see red. I also love the Benefit "Bluffing" products: the powder and the little stick in particular. Don't worry too much if yellow is not a colour that suits you in clothing Bridget, what is important is the way it tones down your redness. You might actually find the combination of the Shu Uemura Base Control under makeup with the Benefit Just Bluffing powder for touch-ups to be an idea combination. The best of both worlds!

I would love to know how you get on,
John

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