Beauty Q & A with John Gustafson

Our make-up, skincare and beauty guru solves all your beauty dilemmas

Hi John,

I am 21 and feel like everyone my age around me has flawless skin bar me. I'm not saying I have terrible acne but surely at this age it should be the odd spot a month, not a few spots a week which take at least 2 weeks to banish then another load come along, oh the joys. I get out the shower and my face is very red, blotchy, flaky and sore. Any ideas how I could reduce this? I've tried splashing cold water onto my face before I leave the shower but it hasn't worked. So once I'm out I moisturise with the brand Simple moisturiser, yet throughout the day my T-zone gets oily and I have black heads and open pores, yet some areas are still flaky. So does this mean that I'm combination skin? I try to cleanse but don't know whether I'm using the right product, I use Neutrogena Deep Clean Invigorating wash, but it has little blue beads in so feel I shouldn't be using that everyday because its probably too harsh for me. Any ideas on how to improve anything about my skin would be greatly appreciated, largely the recurring spot issue. I am a student so retail prices would be ideal, but if something is going to be effective for me I am willing to spend more.

Thank you for reading this, I do hope I haven't rattled on.

Gina

 

Gina,

You haven't rattled on, but I am afraid I might to get everything covered here! Plain and simple - you are stripping your skin. Once you have finished your cleanse - regardless of the product or its price - your skin should feel comfortable. Not dry, tight, or itchy. If you are left that way, the cleanser has not done the job properly. The oily parts will go into overdrive and the rest will be dry and peel. I think you need to find yourself a cleanser that does this and use a very basic moisturiser for a couple of months and THEN see what your skin is like. Chances are that you will find that the centre is a bit oily and the rest feels fine. Or the centre will be fine and the cheeks are a little taut. Yours is too extreme. That stripping will leave the pore openings so tight that the oil can't get out. This leads to the blackheads and the breakout. I know it is difficult to let it go, but it really is the only way your skin will settle to a balance.

Without spending a load of money, there is a new brand called Elizabeth's Daughter that would be an affordable way to use quality products without any irritants or chemicals. There is a Cleansing Wash, a Mask, and a Daily Moisturiser with and SPF15 that would allow your skin to settle and they are made by a woman that had severe problem skin herself for her daughter to use. Really lovely products. But you need to stop buying products that say "deep cleansing", "oily/problem", etc. If you can't find or afford to try the products I mentioned, at least cut back to products that are for normal skin, steer clear of alcoholic toners, and use a moisturiser that is for completely normal skin.

Remember that it takes at least one body cycle of 30 days to make any real impact on the skin. Patience and perseverance will be what you need as much as a change in products. Also, being that you are a student, keep in mind that this is a time when your skin is still very hormonal. Hormones, stress, and a student lifestyle can all contribute to skin flare-ups. I wish you all the best and hope that this helps to get you on the right path...

John

 

Hi John,

Make-up has never been an issue for me but recently (and bearing in mind I'm still using the same foundation I always have done and it's never been a problem before) I put on my make-up in the morning and a few hours later parts of my face especially my nose and chin are extremely shiny and have almost a wet feel as though I've been sweating and I haven't.  It's really annoying and putting on transparent powder takes away the shininess but then makes the make-up appear more visible and you can see my pores. I've tried changing my foundation from Max Factor Lasting Performance to Rimmel Stay Matte as I was told by a member of staff in Boots that a matte foundation was what I needed and that hasn't helped either; please advise.

Regards

Stacey

 

Stacey,

Skin changes. As we get older, some skins become drier and others get a little more oily. There are several possible solutions to the problem though. You could try to use a matte primer to help keep the oils locked in under the make-up without blocking the skin and causing breakout. Boots No7 do a very nice one that won't break the bank. If you can spend a bit more, I love the Shiseido Men's Anti-Shine Refresher. The great thing about this is that your can reapply it during the day to cut shine without a layer of powder. Another possibility would be to try a completely colourless powder for your touch-ups. NOT transparent or translucent: colourless. Shu Uemura and Laura Mercier both do them in both loose and pressed formats. You can apply them as many times as needed without any build-up. Blotting papers would be another option that can be had in nearly any price range. If you have switched to a matte make-up without effect, it could also be that your skincare needs a fine-tuning. Maybe an oil-control moisturiser would help? I know some moisturisers can make me look like my face has been dipped in chip fat while others leave me looking matte all day long. Could it be that you are ready for a change? You said you had used the same foundation for ages, but never mentioned your skin routine. Worth a shot. If I were venturing a guess, I think this might make a bigger difference than a change in foundations.

Best regards,

John

 

Hi John

I often see on celebs that their skin has a shimmery glow to it, especially across the collar bone and legs. I thought this would be an easy look to achieve but every 'shimmer' moisturiser or powder I buy seems to just leave an almost glitter effect across my skin and doesn't give the shimmery sexy glow that the celebs seem to achieve. Any products or tips you can recommend to achieve this look without looking like I've gone crazy with a glitter pen? I have a good budget and don't mind spending a little extra to achieve the look! So your advice would be greatly appreciated!

Keep up the good work.

Laura

 

Laura,

One of the cult favourites among celebrities is Benefit High Beam. Simple mix a little bit of it with a dab of body moisturiser and voila! MAC Strobe Cream is another. The Benefit might be better if you have a warmer skin, while the MAC is better with cool. I myself use a lot of creamy eyeshadows to get this effect. I find that really successful because you can find a better range of shades - so it looks natural on your skintone - and they are usually longer lasting and/or waterproof. Handy if you are wearing something you love or are out for the evening. Thanks for your note and I hope you enjoy the products!

Toodle-oo,

John

 

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