Street-market chic - spring/summer catwalk report

Uni-tards, techno tie-dye and summer pastels all make London Fashion Week an '80s-style trashy, flashy affair, by Tracey Lea Sayer

  Clockwise from top left: Topshop, Christopher Kane, Danielle Scutt, Danielle Scutt, Louise Goldin, Marios Schwab, Julien Macdonald

London Fashion Week is certainly pulling its weight this season. It has always been seen as the goofy kid sister to the slickness of New York, the aloofness of Paris and the sheer professionalism of Milan. Not so now. Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of US 'Vogue', and the inspiration for the character Miranda Priestly in 'The Devil Wears Prada', has given the capital a bit of meat on its bones.

The fashion ice queen, who is rather fond of a fur, didn't crack a smile when Gareth Pugh showed a stole made of fake white mice, although Sir Philip Green did manage to get her to giggle during the Christopher Kane show. She has not been alone in her support of British fashion. Other big names to attend were Anna Piaggi from Italian 'Vogue' and Cathy Horyn of the 'New York Times'.

Luella, who has returned to her native London for one season only to coincide with her Mayfair store opening, didn't disappoint her die-hard fans. Rockabilly psychedelia mixed with geek chic made for a killer show.

Christopher Kane, fashion's top gun, still managed to pull off a stupendous third show, despite the theft of 18 outfits the week before from his design studio. Slashed stone-washed jeans, snakeskin and ra-ra skirts continued his '80s obsession - real ‘Del Boy' fashion for the die-hard fashionista.

Marios Schwab showed a beautiful collection of techno tie-dye prints, neoprene harnesses and papoose-back jackets. The spray-can dresses had a nu-rave feel - Schwab is in a league of his own, and created a really stellar show.

Danielle Scutt's hard-nosed warrior women have turned her into a LFW heavyweight. Uni-tards, asymmetric denim shirts and gladiator-style dresses showed her tough side: flick-knife fashion at its finest.

Louise Goldin has taken knitwear out of its comfort zone. Her synchronised swimmers looked almost like mannequins in rubber caps and dresses that came in every colour; a real sight for sore eyes after a long day at the shows.

Todd Lynn's rock 'n' roll collection of razor-sharp tuxedo jackets and biker chic was perfect for the modern groupie. His client list already reads like a who's who, with Mick Jagger and Bono his biggest fans.

Teen queen Peaches Geldof made her catwalk debut at the PPQ show. Her sugarplum-fairy tutu was toughened up with spiky patent boots.

Paul Smith and Margaret Howell, Fashion Week veterans, showed that their endurance on the catwalk is down to their signature styles. Smith's swotty-looking muse looked preppy in her Harry Potter glasses and Howell's bookish heroine was quietly cool in subtle checks and fine knitwear.

Julien Macdonald, the original glam-meister, showed a cute and sexy collection. Skimpy cheerleader dresses and patent majorette hats echoed his early work. Joan Collins and Dame Shirley Bassey enjoyed a drink in the bar together before taking their seats, but they weren't the only dames to attend - drag queen Jodie Harsh sat front row.

The high street also gave the big boys a run for their money. Topshop and COS showed that affordable fashion can be worthy of the catwalk. COS's modern and slick collection was both contemporary and covetable. Muted colours were broken up with splashes of bright yellow and orange. The Topshop show began with a sporty feel, but cagoules and boilersuits were followed by ethereal maxi dresses in pale, washed-out colours.

Trends - uni-tards, ‘bad' dad jumpers, summer tartan, asymmetric, ra-ra skirts, nu-rave, air-brushed, binding, billowy, pegs (pleat-top trousers), boilersuits, snakeskin, stonewash, neoprene.

Colours - lilac, blue, eau-de-nil, spray-can, peach.

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